Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2027 Collection Honors Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel

Matthieu Blazy has officially found his footing at Chanel. A year after his debut, the creative director has reinvigorated the storied fashion house, honoring Chanel’s legacy while steering its aesthetic in a more undone, slightly sexier direction. That vision was on full display at Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2027 show, which transformed the Grand Palais into an outdoor wonderland inspired by a southern Italian village where Blazy vacations, complete with large birds suspended from the ceiling, a massive moon, and a multicolored glass floor.

For the line, Blazy explored how the same fashion codes can be reinterpreted for different eras and different versions of a woman. “Fashion is malleable and transformative, transmitting from the past to the present and into the future,” the show notes read. “Fashion identities shift and change, yet in relation to one woman, they are always different and always the same.”

His muse for Spring/Summer 2027? Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, the house’s founder and namesake. In the collection, “the young Gabrielle becomes the various Chanel women she will be.” In other words, the looks chronicle her fashion evolution, “from the structures of Edwardian corsetry and tailoring she once assumed and rebelled against, to her reconfigured, revolutionary ideas of suiting, slipped on and lightly sported,” according to the notes. Hints of Chanel’s earlier style appeared by way of corset boning, peplum silhouettes, ruffled collars, and curved bodices. “This is not a historical collection; it’s a collection about Gabrielle Chanel’s layered stories,” Blazy wrote. “Ultimately, Chanel took off, and each step she took led to her being free, like a bird.”

Meanwhile, Blazy revisited Chanel’s relationship with menswear. “From construction to deconstruction, her revelatory exploration of masculine tailoring returns,” the show notes read. This concept took shape in raw-edged vests (“gilets”), trousers, and pencil skirt suits — traditional men’s tailoring picked apart and redesigned for women. Blazy further blurred the lines between masculine and feminine, juxtaposing structured menswear with 1930s-inspired formal gowns that were “light enough to slip on and wear with the ease of a T-shirt.”

Though Chanel has long been regarded as prim and polished, Blazy is changing the status quo, giving the house an undone feel through styling. Rather than being tucked in, long blouses flowed naturally, while skinny belts cinched shirting with intentionally imperfect knots. And while tweed remained a constant throughout the line, sexier looks (well, sexy for Chanel) emerged, too — think see-through tanks, as well as blazers worn sans shirt underneath.

To say the bag collection has received a resounding yes from fans of the house would be a massive understatement. In fact, the styles are already popping off online. The purses were more eclectic than ever, with some boasting bright colors and zebra print panels and others covered in floral appliqués. But not every design was new. Model Dyanira Hurbuscher, for instance, toted Chanel’s iconic 2.55 handbag from the archives, underscoring Blazy’s mission to bridge the house’s past with the present. As the show notes put it, “Eras and epochs conflate, particularly in the array of flap bags, both old and new.”

The environment inside the Grand Palais was just as lively, thanks in large part to the soundtrack, which included hits like “Take On More” and “Gimme More.” The former prompted front-row attendees Dua Lipa, Pedro Pascal, Nicole Kidman, and Alexa Demie to subtly break out into dance, while the latter closed out the show.

Ahead, find more highlights from Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2027 show.