During fashion month’s third leg, Milan fashion week’s Fall/Winter 2022 trends debuted in Italy’s style capital with much vibrancy, edge, and poise. As is typical of famed houses like Fendi, Prada, and Alberta Ferretti, a decided boldness appeared on the runways, though not in an unsophisticated manner. A postured thread connected all three, among others, with trends like feminine tailoring emerging at the top of the week. The look largely centers around blazer and skirt suits, bustier-inspired detailing, elegant pleating, and ultra-fitted waists, be it a dress, coat, or button-down shirt tucked into a slim pencil silhouette.
In a spirited contrast, fanciful fabrics from sequins to metallics came down many an Italian catwalk, like oversize and vibrant paillettes at N°21 and Missoni and non-vulgar sheer layers, often paired with oversize faux furs or menswear tailoring for contrast. Similarly, embellishments from rhinestones to feathers made a mark, including the instantly viral Bottega Veneta look from Matthieu Blazy’s debut collection, featuring a sweeping full purple leather skirt trimmed with large-scale plumes.
Perhaps most notably, however, Milan gave way to one of the season’s most audacious trends by far, with Versace as the leader: S&M-style leather and latex, featuring clothes with overt cutouts, daring straps, and less-than-subtle slashes. The unanimous Aughts movement persisted with a similar tone, including ultra-low-rise waists and micro-mini hemlines with undeniably nostalgic small denim skirts in the mix. Plus, a new and more luxurious take on athleisure — “Athluxe” — including Gucci’s highly anticipated collaboration with Adidas.
Keep reading for a full breakdown of ten key Milan fashion week trends — plenty more drama and glamour lies ahead.
Tailoring is proving a big theme for Fall/Winter 2022. However, from Fendi to Sportmax, Milanese designers delivered a refreshingly feminine spin, including blazer and skirt suits, bustier-inspired detailing on button-down shirts and long dresses, and waist-enhancing silhouettes like ultra-slim pencil skirts and nipped-in coats.
A Gaucho-inspired aesthetic came through in Milan, primarily centered around striking knitwear, from bold, graphic dresses at Max Mara to richly textured pullovers and capes that emerged from Brunello Cucinelli and Tod's collections.
For a welcome refresh to athletic staples, Athluxe is the look for Fall/Winter 2022. Think leather-crafted joggers as witnessed at Genny, handcrafted crochet crops and skirts á la Gucci’s collab with Adidas, and unexpected pairings, like a skin-baring bra top with bright slouchy sweats — an eye-catching combo that sauntered down the Missoni runway.
The Italians always deliver alluring attire, with sheer fabric as a signature. The Fall/Winter 2022 update is all about juxtaposition, like an oversized faux fur to top a diaphanous dress, whether it’s lace or ruffled. Or a tailored boxy blazer with a romantically delicate skirt and heels.
The aughts redux is far from over, and the micro-mini is a crucial player in the Fall/Winter 2022 game. The thigh-baring silhouette is inherently bold, but like in London, many instances proved new versions shall be vibrantly pigmented or crafted from luxe fabrics like sequins. As for your “every day” approach, it centers around the beloved denim mini, whether styled with poised pieces like at Versace or with more edge like Diesel’s runway rendition.
The maxi is all but new. However, New York Fashion Week kicked off the look of elongated hems for the Fall/Winter 2022, which now is an established silhouette after witnessing the shows in Milan. The distinctive iterations proved to be of the knit variety, like Alberta Ferretti’s oversize cable-knit silhouette, Jil Sander’s slouchy, ankle-grazing minimal dress, and Etro’s artfully spun sweater and swingy skirt combo.
Leather is yet another iconic cold-weather look refreshed for the 2022 season. While New York debuted edgier renditions from skin-baring sets to biker-inspired styles, Milan designers took a more sophisticated approach, though no less bold. Vibrant colors, oversize silhouettes, and head-to-toe stylings prove the new leather look come fall is all about making a statement.
Buckle Up For S&M
A rebellious thread is no doubt weaving through designer collections for fall. While tattered silhouettes and raver-inspired trousers came through in New York and darkly romantic shapes in London, Milan debuted more sadistic-inspired wares, from dresses and tops teeming with overt cutouts and straps. Plus, less-than-subtle skin flashes via low-slung bottoms and flamboyant trims of the rhinestone variety.
While New York showcased a tempered take on sequins, Milan gave way to high-octane glamour for evenings out, from ‘70s-style robe dresses and powerfully saturated maxi shapes to intricately detailed cocktail numbers, complete with feather accents and embroidery.
Combining the razzle-dazzle tone of rhinestones in New York with London’s scintillating fabrics and fringe, Italian labels verified the 2020’s jazz era through adornment-dripping dresses and skirts, including ruched rhinestones, fringed metallics, and moody noir and navy beaded trims.