Bella Hadid opened the Fendi Fall/Winter 2022 runway show in a delicate sheer slip (styled with a fuzzy cropped blush jacket), setting a softer tone for the collection than we’ve seen in the past. Unlike the label’s previous cold-weather lineup, which featured an emphasis on heavy shearling outerwear and thick knits, this year focused on a less-is-more approach from Kim Jones (Fendi’s artistic director of couture and womenswear collections). Models came down the runway in see-through blouses, tailored high-waisted shorts, and lightweight pistachio-colored dresses. The pieces embodied elements of sensuality and femininity, reflecting Jones’ awareness of sexy dressing that’s permeating throughout the fashion world right now.
For a more macro, thematic view of the collection, Fendi’s show notes revealed that this latest presentation was inspired by Delfina Delettrez — Fendi’s artistic director of jewelry and a fourth-generation heiress to the luxury house. One day, Delettrez arrived to the Fendi offices in a printed blouse that was “stolen” from her mother’s wardrobe — and Jones took interest in the piece. He felt inspired by the history of the top (the exact style Delettrez wore is unknown) and proceeded to look back into the label’s archives for design inspo for fall 2022. His research eventually brought him to the collection of Spring/Summer 1986, which reflected creative director Karl Lagerfeld’s love for the artistic movement.
“The best place to explore the Fendi archives is through the Fendi wardrobes,” said Jones in the show notes. “And these are collections which, although they come from the past, feel very now ... geometric prints and sartorial styling of 1986 [were paired] with the diaphanous lightness [of this collection] and what emerges is a diametric exploration of strength and of softness — a runway of powerful women in beautiful clothes.”
The lightness Jones mentioned was achieved through the sheer ready-to-wear separates and the pastel color palettes of blush pink and minty greens. Jones, who has an affinity for brown (which also happens to be the new neutral for 2022), sprinkled in various cognac and toffee shades into the collection. Elsewhere, pops of gray and navy completed the color story.
Aside from the aforementioned slips, other notable pieces included corsets with an asymmetrical cut, chiffon tops tucked into elegant tweed bottoms, and, of course, the accessories. Silvia Venturini Fendi (the house’s artistic director of accessories and menswear collections) created intarsia fur iterations of the Fendi First bag and oversized shopper.
She also brought back several previous editions of the Baguette in honor of its 25th anniversary — fans can expect to see the shape in cashmere, in shearling-lined leather, and in intarsia mink come fall. Meanwhile, models rocked supersized ear cuffs and tennis bracelets inset with baguette crystals that read “FF” for Fendi. A key and lock bangle, which came in multiple colors, was also introduced for the first time — all the pieces were born from Delettrez’s creative design eye.
“[This is] a wardrobe designed for every aspect of a woman’s life, for every generation,” Jones concluded in the press release. Ahead, see all the wardrobe staples you’ll want to add to your closet once the full fall collection drops later this year.