If you’re curious about what to add to your wardrobe for the new season, you only have to look to the street style snaps and runway shows from Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 for inspiration. But since there's not a Fashion Week equivalent for skincare (can someone please make this happen?), discovering the biggest spring skincare trends usually takes a little more digging. Dermatologists and plastic surgeons always have a finger on the pulse of what’s happening in the beauty space, though — it’s kind of their job — so who better to ask about the season’s up-and-coming ingredients, products, and tools?
“There is clearly a trend with CBD-based skincare,” Dr. Neil Sadick of Sadick Dermatology in New York City tells The Zoe Report. “Although the science behind CBD is only now unravelling, it is a natural agent that has clear antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.” He predicts spring will bring buzzy CBD serums, moisturizers, masks, and more — along with a healthy dose of education to back it up.
Many derms anticipate a rise in probiotic skincare, as well as a focus on the skin’s barrier; which, similarly, is only starting to be understood by science. “As our understanding grows, I think we are going to see more skincare products that support the skin's microbiome,” Dr. Sejal Shah, the founder of SmarterSkin Dermatology, tells TZR. “Watch for probiotics and prebiotics.”
But it’s not just new ingredients that are emerging for spring — experts predict everything from how products are packaged to how brands interact with customers will start to evolve. “Moving to single-use ampoules, for instance, can keep antioxidants stable and products bacteria-free,” Dr. Jennifer Herrmann, a board-certified dermatologist based in Beverly Hills, says in an email to The Zoe Report. “Jars that require consumers to repeatedly dip in a finger are out.”
And — how fitting for spring — expect to see green. “Patients want safe, reproducible options that are as natural as possible,” Dr. Ben Talei, a Beverly Hills plastic surgeon, tells TZR. “That’s what all the trends are showing — and in a world where we are going green, beauty should be no exception.”
Ahead, every skincare trend to watch for the season ahead, according to the experts.
Spring Skincare Trend: Peptides With Growth Factors
"These are small amino acid chains that are easily absorbed and send signals to cells to make collagen, repair themselves, and retain moisture," Dr. Julio Gallo, Miami-based facial plastic surgeon says. "They help stimulate the skin's own natural growth factors. These peptides activate skin’s natural renewal mechanisms for youthful looking skin."
Spring Skincare Trend: Chamomile
"Obviously now with the current crisis, most clients are talking about stress and how it affects the skin," Joanna Vargas, celebrity esthetician and co-founder of JV Skincare in New York City and Los Angeles says. "We are seeing more of a focus on soothing ingredients like chamomile. And Dr. Gallo agrees. "We’re seeing more and more plant based, natural products that focus on reducing skin inflammation. These are great for skin and have proven to be quite effective. I would avoid products with synthetic chemicals and irritating products/results."
Spring Skincare Trend: Anti-Bacterial Skincare
The need for clean is at an all-time high. And with everyone putting an even bigger emphasis on getting rid of germs, the desire for skin as clean as our super-washed hands and body is growing. "There's a huge rise in the notion of anti-bacterial in skincare," Vargas says. "Our soaps have been extremely in demand of late."
Spring Skincare Trend: At-Home Peels
"At-home peels are becoming increasingly popular," Dr. Gallo says. "These are lighter than the ones you would get at a dermatologist, and work to gently exfoliate and remove dead cells from the surface of the skin. This helps to expose the underlying skin to actives that help reduce inflammation, induce repair and retain moisture."
Spring Skincare Trend: Radio Frequency With Mirconeedling
"I still the think the most exciting treatment in the minimally invasive market is radio frequency with microneedling," Vargas says. "Both are included in my Twilight Facial. I have never seen such a dramatic change in the skin in everyone who does it."
Spring Skincare Trend: The Microbiome & Probiotics
“There has been an explosion of research aimed at defining the skin's healthy microbiome (the normal microbes that live on our skin symbiotically) and how its variance can influence conditions like acne, eczema, and aging,” Dr. Herrmann says. “Although we're still learning, I believe that as we become more familiar with exactly which bacteria, yeast, and other microbes support a healthy skin ecosystem, we'll be able to tailor skin probiotics to support or reestablish this healthy milieu. Returning the skin's microbiome back to a healthy state may clear skin of breakouts, calm inflammation, fight pollution, and temper aging. This is a much more natural approach to skincare and may circumvent the need for topical medications, which can have side effects.”
Spring Skincare Trend: Ampoules
“Changes in packaging will be big in 2019,” Dr. Shah says. “As unstable ingredients, such as vitamin C, become more popular, I expect to see more individually packaged or single-use packaging that maintains the potency of these active ingredients.”
Spring Skincare Trend: (More) CBD
“Cannabinoids and the related oils are blowing up, and rightfully so,” Dr. Talai tells TZR. “Whether they are made from cannabis or hemp, their effects are quite impressive. The pure forms are used to inflammation, along with a host of other issues. Add them to your normal skincare regimen as an oil, and you will likely get a noticeable boost in [anti-inflammatory] effect.” The plastic surgeon says his own Aurasilk Oil will soon be available with a CBD upgrade.
Spring Skincare Trend: Holistic Beauty
“Skin regimens that rely solely on products fall short of maximizing skin's health,” Dr. Herrmann says. “Internal health, as opposed to external products, is just as important for a healthy and bright appearance. We will continue to see an emphasis on whole-body wellness to strengthen our skin — from yoga and meditation to exercise, healthy foods, and supplements that support reparative processes.”
Spring Skincare Trend: Hyaluronic Acid For The Body
“There is a new trend with hyaluronic acid-based overnight masks for the face and moisturizers for the body,” Dr. Sadick says. “Most brands have developed such products that contain hyaluronic acid with other ingredients, such as retinol or antioxidants. Due to the advent of injectable hyaluronic acid fillers — like Juvéderm and Restylane — patients already have experienced the benefits of the ingredient, so including hyaluronic acid in other formulations externally, and cost-effectively, has a great appeal.”
Spring Skincare Trend: Vitamin B3
“Vitamins designed for the skin have become trendier than ever,” Dr. Moy says. “Research has shown how our skin can be improved by diet and supplements. This promotes the idea of looking better from the inside out with the use of supplements, like vitamin B3. Many of my patients will decrease sugars and add vitamin B3 to improve their skin. The vitamin, also known as nicotinamide or niacinamide, was shown in a New England Journal of Medicine article to have such an effect on DNA repair in the skin that skin cancers were dramatically reduced.”
Spring Skincare Trend: Bakuchiol
“Bakuchiol is one of the newest retinoid alternatives to hit the market,” Dr. Shah explains. “What makes this plant-based ingredient exciting is that preliminary data suggests it may be as effective as retinol. More data is needed, but I expect to see more of this ingredient in 2019.”
Spring Skincare Trend: LED Light Therapy Masks & Beds
“Newer technologies are emerging for LED lights, in face masks and full-body treatment beds,” Dr. Talei tells The Zoe Report. “The beds are very effective in treating anything from stress to back pain to inflammation, and it seems to speed up the process of healing in the body.”
Spring Skincare Trend: Accountability
“Consumers are becoming much more ingredient-savvy and aware,” Dr. Herrmann says. “Companies will have to do a better job of informing customers of exactly what skincare products contain and where they were sourced.”
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