It’s no secret that current events tend to have an influence on fashion and beauty. (Remember the ombré hair trend that came about when people stopped dyeing their hair during the 2008 recession?) And if the dramatic eye makeup that’s cropped up during NYFW F/W ‘22 is any indication, the ubiquitousness of masks in our daily lives seems to have inspired makeup artist to focus on above-the-nose beauty. Instead of the bold, moody lips that are usually the trend du jour during the fall/winter shows, designers and artists are sending sparkles, pops of color, and daddy-long-leg-length lashes down the runway with plenty of Euphoria-inspired eye makeup.
These gilded lids are paired with barely-there makeup on the rest of the face — think tinted moisturizer, a bit of highlighter on the cheeks, and brushed-up, fluffy brows. The result is a statement eye instead of a statement lip — which, if you think of it, is a much less fussy way to give your beauty look some pizazz. (You don’t have to sneak off to the bathroom to re-apply your eyeshadow, after all.) Models at shows including BRONXANDBANCO, Jason Wu, and Christian Cowan all donned major eye candy that drew all the attention to the lids.
At the BRONXANDBANCO show on Friday, February 11 in NYC, Stila global beauty director Charlie Riddle opted for bright, sparkling shadows. After prepping the skin with color-corrector and a lightweight foundation, he went with one of two colors for the models’ lids: Stila’s Shimmer & Glow Liquid Eye Shadow in Daring, a bright pink, or the brand’s Double Dip Suede Shade & Glitter & Glow Liquid Eye Shadow in Beach Wave, a vibrant blue.
But so as not to be overly whimsical, Riddle added a touch of grit to the look by adding not one, not two, but three eyeliners. He first tightlined the eyes with Stila’s Stay All Day Smudge Stick in Stingray, before lining the eyes in the brand’s new Stay All Day Matte Liquid Liner, which launches next month. He finished up with a final layer of another new liner: Stila’s Stay All Day Artstix Graphic Liner in Disco, which will be available in July.
Things were slightly more subdued over at Jason Wu, where lead makeup artist Diane Kendal created a graphic eye look using Wu’s eponymous cosmetic line. The duo opted for a smokey shadow in a sharp, exaggerated cat-eye that was reminiscent of old Hollywood glamour using the brand’s Jewel Stick in Solid Black. “The collection was inspired by old photos of the 1950s, so there’s a lot of black and white,” Wu explained. For a little extra pop, Kendal dabbed a yellow shadow from Wu’s Flora Shadow Quad in Santa Fe into just the corner of a few models’ eyes.
The look at Jason Wu was similar to the Christian Cowan glam, where lead makeup artist Lori Taylor Davis, global pro lead artist for Smashbox, created a similar smokey eye, using the brand’s Always On Gel Liner in Fishnet. And while the Julia Fox-esque eye makeup was the main attraction, one would be remiss to ignore the rich flush of blush across the cheeks and temples.
Over at SHAYNEOLIVER, lead makeup artist Pat McGrath took a turn toward the dramatic (As she is known to do). “We were obsessed with the idea of creating human bouquets,” she noted in press email. The look included “pollen-drenched lashes blooming into full-floral fantasies.” This translated into a series of looks that focused on maximalist eyes with some floral flare. McGrath used her Mothership 1: Subliminal Palette as a foundation for the majority of the eye looks, dipping into shades like “ultimate taupe” and “depth” to create a whimsical look that was something out of a fairytale. On some models, she applied painted false lashes to give the illusion of flower petals.
The inspiration over at Altuzzara was extremely nautical. Models looked like sirens emerging from the sea, complete with wet, matted hair and oil slick eyes. Lead makeup artist Dick Page mixed a gunmetal gray pigment with a little gloss and diffused it up the models’ eyes until it disappeared into nothing. It’s more Rue-going-through-it in season 2 of Euphoria, but the glossy eye was a gorgeous way to play with this trend with minimal effort.
And while you may not turn your eyes into a flower, or choose a look that makes you look like a shipwrecked siren, these over-the-top eyes are so much fun to play with. Shop the products below to recreate the trend at home.
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