The morning of July 5, Dior made a triumphant (and worth the wait) return to the Paris runway. A-list fashion enthusiasts including Florence Pugh, Cara Delevingne, and Jennifer Lawrence were among those in attendance at the Musée Rodin for a show that was filled with inspiration — and that wasn’t exclusive to the tailored tweed trench coats and ethereal gowns that models wore as they made their way down the catwalk. The makeup looks, created by Christian Dior Makeup’s creative and image director Peter Philips in collaboration with the iconic fashion house’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, was just as memorable. And according to Philips, the Dior Haute Couture blue eyeliner, which added an elegant edge to every piece in the collection, is actually pretty wearable — even if you’re just pairing it with an everyday look.
During a post-show discussion with press, the makeup mastermind explained that Chiuri wanted a bold blue eye for the Autumn/Winter 2021-2022 runway show, and that the shape was a continuation of the look he’d created for the label’s Pre-Fall 2021 presentation: A punk-yet-elegant, softened graphic line under the eye. After some experimentation, Philips realized that an electric blue proved too powerful when paired with the collection. Instead, inspired by the midnight hue of one of the included gowns, he layered a blue eyeshadow over black liner to achieve a more nuanced color.
Such a technique, Philips says, is perfect for those who are typically color-shy with their makeup. And because the runway look included very little else in terms of makeup (just a clear, glossy lip courtesy of the Rouge Dior Satin Balm in 000, and an even toned complexion via the Dior Forever Foundation) it’s actually pretty wearable whether you’re in breezy summer separates or couture.
To recreate his makeup as shown on the runway, first prep your skin (Philips used products from Dior’s Prestige line because “it’s haute couture so it should be a little fancy”), then apply a luminous but not-too-shiny foundation like Dior Forever matte, enhance brows with a product like Diorshow Brow Styler, and scrub and moisturize the lips (no lip color needed). The emphasize here (aside from the eyes) is on a hydrated, even complexion, so don’t skip those pre-makeup skin care steps.
For the eye itself, draw a line under the eye — from the inner corner outward but not quite into a wing — with a blendable black liner like 24H Diorshow Stylo in Matte Black and soften the edges. To create a colorful line, layer a deep blue shadow (Philips used one from Dior’s Denim palette) over the liner using a flat brush. Finish with mascara, primarily added to the root of the top outer lashes. The effect is intense, but subtle and luminous in color, which makes it suitable to pair with a variety of outfits, and is ideal if you’re just starting to play with more colorful cosmetics.
Still, if you’re wary about trying it for daytime, Philips has some advice: “If you do the whole thing a little less heavy, proportion a little more subtle, it’s a little easier to wear,” he tells TZR. A thinner line, he says, makes the effect feel more casual. Then make sure you keep the rest of your makeup more natural. “A bit of mascara and you’re ready to go,” he adds.
Ready to try this nuanced colorful eye for yourself? Ahead find a few of Philips-approved products that can help you get the look.
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