There’s been an underlying current of excitement buzzing through the Big Apple this past week. For the first autumn in two years, the city’s biannual fashion shows and party extravaganza felt like it was truly back in full force — as were, in turn, the industry folk (and influencers) madly racing from one event to another. Everyone seemed to be thrilled to be running into friends and acquaintances again, not to mention overjoyed at the opportunity to get dressed up. Meanwhile, on the runways, the New York Spring/Summer 2023 trends channeled a similar sentiment: In one way or another, the collections this week celebrate the sheer fun of wearing something outside the house — and letting loose again.
There were, of course, plenty of party clothes. Prabal Gurung, Collina Strada, and Fendi (who technically showed its Resort, not Spring, line-up) all served up bold and bright fare laced with Y2K references — cargo pockets! Bustier bodices! — while Gabriela Hearst and Khaite went for a more elegant evening-wear selection in rich gold materials and sheer lacers of tulle, respectively. And both Marni and Maisie Wilen turned around dream wardrobes for any club kid by focusing on ultra-saturated colors, slinky fits, and body-baring cutouts.
Meanwhile, it also seems that designers have the office — specifically how we might return to it — on their minds. There was no shortage of 9-to-5-friendly pieces, but reimagined for the more casual, hybrid work world we live in. In particular, Tibi’s oversize blazers (a brand signature), Altuzarra’s deftly layered shirting and sweaters, and Tory Burch’s crisp blouses and double layer skirts stand out.
As for anyone who’s not quite ready to give up the sartorial ease of their quarantine life? I’d suggest looking toward the slinky silk pieces of Maxwell Osborn’s newly launched brand anOnlyChild, or perhaps a jersey or knit number from Victor Glemaud, a master of making simple and stretchy looks incredibly elegant. And for anyone who rather not deal with a waistband, Gen Z go-to Coach, was full of relaxed babydoll dresses and oversized coats styled sans pants. Generally, there was very few sweatsuit pieces around the catwalks, and for good reason: After spending so long in athleisure, who doesn’t want a fresh way to be comfortable and chic?
Definitely me. And if you fall in that camp, too — or are completely craving clothes on the tight and tailored side, there’s a little something for everyone this NYFW this season. Ahead, seven burgeoning trends to have on your radar right now.
An easy way to look au current? Add in some corset-like lacing (as seen at Monse and Tia Adeola), long dangly bits of fabric (check out Peter Do and Prabal Gurung), or refined thread-like tassels (Michael Kors, Khaite). For a more elevated spin on the style, look to Altuzarra, where the detail added a sophisticated sense of texture to easy shirting.
Slashed, twisted, and full of cut-outs, this of-the-moment aesthetic is all about twisting and turning clothes around the body to accentuate all the right places. A few stands outs: the gothic-cool stylings of up-and-comer Elena Velez, No Sesso’s sexy sheer black numbers. Also note Eckhaus Latta, a downtown-favorite that always manages to tear and turn an outfit to perfection.
Bell Du Jour
Exaggerated flared silhouettes are suddenly omnipresent — think mega flamenco sleeves, bell bottoms, and swishy flared dress silhouettes, as spotted at shows like Proenza Schouler, Christian Siriano, and Monse. In other words? This trend is destined for a fabulous night out dancing.
Luxe Be A Lady
Lush, opulent fabric and trimmings is out in full force this season, although their’s plenty of vibes to choose from. TZR’s favorites? The aforementioned fluid satin suiting at AnOnlyChild, Brandon Maxwell’s fluid, beautifully draped silk styles, and playful feather embellishment at both Fe Noel and Tia Adeola.
The latest twist on classic utilitarian style? Keep it clean and minimalist, as illustrated by labels like Tibi, Dion Lee, Sandy Liang, Jonathan Simkhai, and Brandon Maxwell (to name a few).
Flounce That Thang
Picking up where the flared silhouette trend leaves off, bouncy, flirty silhouettes — think big, buoyant ruffles that swish with every movement — are having a major moment. Consider more subtle takes on the look, like vacation-ready dresses at Ulla Johnson during the day and the dressier options at Proenza Schouler and Carolina Herrera to make a cocktail party statement.
Color Me Happy
Sure black is a classic, but bright, bold, and occasionally neon hues are just so much fun. Plus, there’s so many interesting ways to wear them right now. Try the Fran Dresser pink power suiting at Sergio Hudson on for size, or slip in one of the many chartreuse and lime green numbers spotted this week, including at Fendi, Collina Strada, and Tory Burch. Lavender as well, proved to be lovely at Adam Lippes, Jason Wu, and Brandon Maxwell. Oh, and in case you haven’t heard, vibrant orange is currently giving the street style scene some serious juice.