Fendi’s New Collection Is An Ode To Re-Emergence Style
Straight from the runway.
Fendi's Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear, Kim Jones, knows what he likes. Or better yet, knows what his customers like. The neutral tones, soft pastel shades, and impeccable tailoring present in Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2022 runway collection were a smooth continuation of themes found in Jones’ last collection. (Back in February 2021, the British designer debuted his first ready-to-wear collection with the fashion house.) He is focused on creating luxe designs for women who are ready to embrace re-emergence fashion.
“Our woman has let loose a bit — she’s going out, dressing up. We’ve all been locked away for so long that I think that’s what we all need right now,” Jones said in a press release. For the designer, going-out clothes doesn’t mean flimsy fabrication or the “less is more” mantra — every piece from the spring collection included the same level of demur and refinement inherent to Fendi’s posh DNA.
There were luxurious silky pantsuits in blush and ivory styled with equally silky bralettes underneath, (which were also a major trend at New York Fashion Week), strapless fringe dresses, and sheer pleated midi skirts. For practicality, there was even a furry coat (or three) to keep you warm as you wait for an Uber ride home from the club. The dance and party scene had a strong influence on Jones’ spring collection as he was inspired by the work of fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez. In a press statement, Lopez was described as an artist with “liberated sensibility” and, of course, had a love for Studio 54 and its patrons like Jerry Hall, Tina Chow, Pat Cleveland, Bianca Jagger, and Grace Jones.
“While I’ve been looking at Karl [Lagerfeld’s] legacy at the house, I’ve also been looking around him, at his contemporaries — at who he was interested in,” said Jones in a statement. “Lopez was a friend of Karl’s, and has always been someone who inspired me. He was forward thinking; inclusive; looked up to by everyone from Andy Warhol to Steven Meisel and David Hockney. I wanted to introduce him to a new generation.”
To break up the neutral palette in the spring collection, Jones incorporated the artist’s abstract and colorful designs into the garments and accessories. Cream kaftans and silk shirting received hot pink and turquoise brushstrokes while colorful figurative drawings were translated into intarsia leathers. The designer worked seamlessly with the Artistic Director of Accessories Silvia Venturini Fendi and Artistic Director of Jewelry Delfina Delettrez Fendi to continue the expressive messaging in the fashion house’s accessories. Fendi’s iconic bags like the Peekaboo were blank canvases for Lopez’s illustrative artwork while the artist’s rendition of lilies were applied to enamel hair accessories.
When you look closely at the footwear, you’ll notice Fendi’s First heel received a ‘70s spin in shimmering leathers and saturated stripes. Meanwhile, on the wrists of almost every model, was a brand new half moon-shaped purse with gold lettering on the underside that boldly read “FENDI.” It’s the ideal going-out bag — small enough to hold all your belongings but makes a stylish logo statement. (The purse is so new, in fact, it doesn’t even have a name yet.) Other standout styles included furry iterations of Fendi’s First style and large shopper totes that mimicked patterns spotted on the outerwear.
You’ll need to wait a bit before you can shop the spring 2022 pieces, but in the meantime, start plotting your going-out ensembles for next season. Ahead, take a closer look at some of the exquisite runway looks and add them to your styling inspiration board.