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Prada's Fall/Winter 2020 Runway Show Was Filled With Pieces That Are Made To Move

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Miuccia Prada has an uncanny knack for transporting her audience to a different decade. Last season, for Spring 2020, it was the ‘70s, what with the oversized spectacles, brown-and-orange motifs, and pussy-bow blouses. Back in Spring 2017, it was the early ‘80s, evident in more ways than one. And for Prada’s Fall/Winter 2020 runway show, the designer set her eyes on a new time: the present.

Of course, there were hints of decades past: the tailored skirt sets; the layered sweater vests; the glistening midi-dresses; the fringe that was, well, everywhere. But this collection felt specifically modern. It leaned on a few trends that haven’t yet run their course — tiny purses hung around the neck, belt bags centered at the waist, a new iteration of the Prada headband that hit instant cult status — but was grounded in the timeless quirk that comprises the Italian label.

“Tools of glamour, uniforms of beauty,” opened a press release, translated from her native tongue. “For Fall/Winter 2020, a consideration of the strength of women, an emphasis on an inherent authority found in that which is intrinsically feminine. Rather than a negation of identity, a celebration. The agency of women.” That’s a notion we need now more than ever.

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The designer cherry-picked elements from her most recent menswear show, including the set (a play on an Italian piazza); the eerie soundtrack (par for the course) and even some styling elements (a sleeveless shirt flanked by a tie and a sweater vest). Models materialized from one of 18 luminescent red doors, the majority clad in pieces that look best while in motion: car wash skirts, glittering fringe, sheer dresses layered atop opaque tights. “Movement is tied to the corporeal, to athleticism … the clothing of everyday, today,” the release continued.

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“Along the walls, boldly geometric flowers appear between the graphics, echoing the façades of Viennese Secessionist buildings,” the release said. The geometric flower motif showed up on nearly half a dozen pieces, including a trio matching silk pajama sets.

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Her more-is-more approach was evident in full-length faux-fur coats (the label officially eschewed real fur for its Spring 2020 collection); risky color combinations of red and green, or black and yellow; and fringe on everything imaginable: on the hem of a tiered midi dress, at the collar of an embellished frock, as a full skirt. In one instance, it hung from a scarf tied around the neck to give the illusion of knee-length hair.

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As per usual, outerwear was a hit: There were two separate iterations of shearling-lined patent leather longline vests, as well as the genius soon-to-be it-piece: a half-blazer, half-puffer topper in a variety of colors. Expect to see it on notable Prada devotees next season.

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