French fashion house Chloé is long-lauded for its devotion to the boho-chic aesthetic. Drapey, white dresses, paisley prints, and gladiator sandals have long been part of the brand's vocabulary. But Chloe's Spring/Summer 2020 runway collection is something a bit different. Since Natacha Ramsay-Levi took the helm three years ago, the brand has been infused with a fresh, refined take on the Chloé woman, complete with tailored suiting and pared down separates. It's a progression that has grown and evolved over time, presenting an alternative way of dressing for fans of the brand who want to stay true to its core aesthetic.
"The collection explores French élan in a decisive equilibrium of tailoring and flou," the show notes explained. "Musing on a relaxed elegance. Invoking feminine personalities and masculine silhouettes, character studies create a polished approach to daywear." This iteration of the Chloé customer embraces the nuance of the bohemian spirit and ease, but with a decidedly more serious sensibility. The season's color palette remained mostly soft and muted — soft pinks, greens, and neutrals dominated. But the collection also featured a few unexpectedly edgy options: black maxi dresses, bright graphic tees, and sharp suits, styled together and separately.
Classic, relaxed silhouettes were often paired with more tailored counterparts, and many of the looks in the latest collection were more geared toward evening dressing. Splashes of metallic fabrics have appeared on runways in every city for Spring/Summer 2020, and at Chloé, the trend appeared in the form of a gold lamé skirt styled with a shimmery top and boots. Other seasonal trends like olive green and shorts suits also popped up, further sealing their fates as must own staples for the start of 2020.
As for accessories, it's often Chloé's shoes and bags that become influencer favorites mere days after they make a runway appearance. This season, the brand introduced a new bucket hobo bag: the Darryl. The jewelry presented on each model was oversized, yet largely minimalist in style, including chunky chokers, wooden chains, and sleek, hammered cuffs and earrings. On the footwear front, the focus this season was on a simple, buckled boot as well as a platform sandal, styles that can be swapped to instantly transform many of the looks presented from day to night or from casual activity to something more dressed up.
While Ramsay-Levi embraced a number of bold prints for her Fall/Winter 2019 collection, the spring collection was subtle. Though the expected seasonal floral prints appeared a few times, they were especially simple iterations. A red micro floral top was styled with a white bubble hem skirt, and a white pleated dress was embellished with gold beads in subtle a floral design. The brand's now-signature pony print also appeared, but presented in a barely discernible two-tone beige. Otherwise, it was striping — pinstripe suits and color-blocked knits alike — that dominated as the prevailing print throughout.
For Chloé loyalists, those bohemian touches remain: The billowy skirts and breezy, cotton blouses will forever be part of the brand's DNA. But in the new decade, Ramsay-Levi is offering you a new, alternative way to hold onto the spirit while still moving towards the structured, sharp future.