Nensi Dojaka has accomplished a tremendous amount since launching her self-named label in 2017. Beyond landing regular accounts at some of fashion’s most luxurious e-tailers (Ssense, Matchesfashion, MyTheresa, to name a few), the Albanian designer and Central Saint Martins grad won the prestigious LVMH prize in 2021 out of shortlist of nine other on-the-rise applicants vying for the €300,000 prize. Bella Hadid has worn her sexy, strappy creations, as has Zendaya, Emma Watson, and Beyoncé (who is well known for finding and supporting emerging fashion talent). So, needless to say, there was no small amount of anticipation around Nensi Dojoka’s Spring/Summer 2023 show this morning.
Still, if Dojaka felt any pressure, you’d never guess it. Debuted in the midst of London Fashion Week, her latest lineup delivered everything that keeps the brand’s burgeoning fan base coming back for more: delicate, négligée-like necklines, cut-out bodices, and curve-enhancing silhouettes. The designer’s work is undeniably sultry, but also powerful and strong — as are the women who wear her pieces. And you could see that confidence in the faces of the models, such as industry-beloved bombshells Paloma Elsesser and Emily Ratajkowski, walking her runway today: They emanated the kind of self-assured sexiness that comes with just knowing how beautiful you look.
Of course, solid house signatures are not enough to keep a label relevant. But, this morning, Dojaka has shown no struggle in evolving. Her most recent work incorporated plenty of newness by way of shimmering sequin fabric — including on a fluid pink gown that’s equal parts Barbie and Jessica Rabbit — and her first addition of denim styles. The latter comes by way of clean-lined two-tone jeans that are just the thing to anchor all manner of flirty little going-out tops. There were also more than a few flouncy mini skirts layered with see-through fabric, which felt like a natural move forward from the brand’s more fitted shapes of the past. As for the slinky (and sometimes sheer) lingerie-inspired bike shorts that peppered the selection? Certainly not everyone’s cup of tea — but those who dare to wear a pair will look d*mn good.
Keep scrolling ahead for some of TZR’s favorite looks from the show.