The Spring/Summer 2023 runway collections that just finished showing in Milan provided fertile ground for expanding one’s personal style. The shows had mix of just about everything — romance, rebellion, and even a racy look or two for those who are leaning into all things sultry and sexy for 2022. On one end of the spectrum? There were fresh takes on timeless classics, like suiting and dressed-up denim (it is the land of sharp tailoring, after all). On the other side? Lots of fun, fun, fun: Just look to the fringe embellishment at Bottega Veneta, neon colors at Fendi, and splashy, spangly motifs (times two!) at Gucci.
And while fashion editors are already in Paris awaiting the next crop of collections to debut, let’s not move on quite yet — why not take the opportunity to linger on the long list of strong looks seen in Milan? There are just so many moods and inspirations to sift through. (Not to mention the buzz-worthy moments happening in spades: see the Kate Moss appearance at Bottega Veneta and Paris Hilton popping up in a hot pink dress on the Versace catwalk).
Ahead, a highlight reel of TZR’s favorite trends from the Italian runways this season.
Delicate & Dazzling
Designers leaned into the return of Roaring Twenties-inspired fashion by encrusting and bejeweling pale and pretty party dresses a plenty. At Bottega Veneta, creative director Matthieu Blazy debuted little white dresses decorated with beading and fringe that shimmered in the light. It’s also worth noting the stretch fabric dresses seen at Philosophy di Lorenza Serafini, brought to life with a medley of teeny, tiny sparkles. And at Giorgio Armani, the designer closed his show with several glistening tulle dresses dotted with sparkle.
With each season comes a few new It colors (think: Barbiecore pink, slime green, you get the idea). While the palette du jour come spring is not decided just yet, there were some beautiful multicolor pieces on the Milan runways that were cast in a gradient, some resembling a soft sunset. At Etro, the effect was spotted on a collared day dress that would make for a chic office wardrobe update. Meanwhile, Salvatore Ferragamo used a medley of blues and greens to craft a gown that’s destined to pop up somewhere on the red carpet come awards season.
Bye, Bye, Skinnies
You’ve heard it before — skinny jeans are no longer the silhouette of the moment. Especially if the Milan runways have anything to say about it. Loose, wide leg denim made an appearance in several collections and on some notable woman (ahem, Kate Moss). Wear a pair of baggy blues with a laidback flannel, as seen at Bottega Veneta, or contrast them with your favorite night-out bodysuit à la Bally — jeans are, if nothing else, supremely versatile.
To say 2022 has been a good year for come hither style is a vast understatement. Thong pants, harnesses, cutouts, and more — if it nods toward kink, it’s probably a trend. On the Milanese runways, this manifested in several ways. At Gucci, pants with integrated visible thong straps were shown in double, and Andreadamo’s strappy detailing had everyone scheming their next subversive party look.
Big & Boxy
While slim-fitted waistcoats have been popular in the street style scene lately, Italy-based brands leaned hard into oversized suiting with boxy vests. Wear yours with a matching trouser or try it with some (aforementioned) baggy jeans and strappy sandals. The camel-colored vest at Tod’s felt especially versatile for transitioning from winter to spring.
Crazy For Cargo
It would be shocking if you made it through summer without a pair of cargo pants — everyone was wearing them. And while a khaki version does feel versatile and timeless, designers in Milan waged their bets on snazzier versions, like at Fendi where cargos in silky, sometimes colorful fabrics made a debut. The look feels decidedly Y2K, which as of now, doesn’t seem to be going anywhere anytime soon.
The Sci-Fi Effect
Every few years there seems to be a wave of nostalgia for old-school futuristic style. Metallics, funky silhouettes, unique fabric detailing — it’s maybe not what the actual future looks like, but it certainly evokes the feeling of it. And despite the look’s boldness, it’s surprisingly easy to wear — consider going for a statement silver dress or trying upgrading your coat with a gunmetal hue.
Made To Move
The hallmark of a fun piece of clothing is movement, and on the Milan runways there was plenty of it to go around. Fringe and other swishy details that added not just texture, but fluidity to the pieces were in great supply. Jil Sander was a standout in the category with the sequined knit fringe shown on dresses and skirts to close the show. And at Sportmax, bustled skirting and Paillette-detailed matching sets are sure to inspire a shimmy or two.
Designers were feeling rebellious this season, or so their collections would have you believe. A bit goth, a bit punk rock — lots of black paired with ripped denim, leather moto, and chunky chains. And although it’s not the first trend you’d expect for spring, it feels surprisingly fresh. Turn to Jil Sander, for example, who debuted noir midi skirts bedecked in grumpy cloud-shaped mirrors. Or Prada, whose sheer black dress teamed with a pointed collar shirt felt like a subtle nod to goth queen Wednesday Addams. Even at Sportmax, moody separates like a long leather black coat and a noir long-sleeve maxi stepped into goth territory.
New Way To Nude
Showing flashes of skin has looked like cutouts and bare midriffs the last several months. But for spring, many of the Milan runways embraced a slightly different take on bare skin by way of romantic sheer fabrications (perhaps a result of the recent Balletcore trend?). Especially at Prada, where gauzy skirts crafted in pastel hues exposed undergarments, or at Bottega Veneta, where sheer tights were paired with a chunky knit — sans pants.
A Bit Of Boudoir
Lingerie ran the gamut on the Milan runways, with more conservative takes on boudoir dressing spotted at Prada (those lacy slip skirts peeking out from under the dresses were layered perfection) to bold looks like at Versace (neon yellow corsets, anyone?). Of course, there were also options between those two extremes, like at N°21 where pretty satin bras and bloomers were worn under sheer slips. The takeaway here is to invest in a pretty piece of lingerie for spring, because you’ll likely be showing it off.