As this season’s series of shows in Great Britain come to a close, it’s hard to believe that less than two weeks ago there were doubts of them happening at all. In the unexpected wake of Queen Elizabeth II’s death there was talk of shutting the whole situation down but, while many brands did cancel and reschedule, the rest rallied together last minute to plan a respectful way to still share their latest and greatest work. And judging from the bold and brilliant London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023 trends TZR has to report, wow, are our editors glad that they did.
Some of this season’s reoccurring looks proved continuations of what was seen on the New York runways — bubble hems (seen at Christopher Kane and JW Anderson) and exaggerated bell bottoms (at Halpern and Dilara Findikoglu) were both major themes. And there were certainly a fair amount of building on last February’s most notable looks, from the dangerously low waistlines at David Koma to the entrance-making ‘80s-esque evening wear at Molly Goddard.
That said, there was also a thrilling number of new and innovative ideas to take in, be it by way of material, cut, or embellishment. Ahead, TZR has compiled eight sartorial ideas that stand out — keep scrolling for the scoop.
Big, fluffy, and flouncy, the material once reserved for demure tutus got the catwalk treatment by way of vibrant colors (see the Kelly green and coral at Huishan Zhang and bright lilac at Molly Goddard) and statement silhouettes (Erdem’s ballgowns and floor-length veils).
Is this real life? Or is it fantasy? In the case of some of London’s most imaginative, over-the-top looks this past week, it’s likely a little of both. From the digital fishbowl print dresses at JW Anderson (whose collection was inspired by culture’s current obsession with screens) and dramatic, outsized sculptural shapes at Harris Reed, some of the season’s most memorable styles resonated with a strange, thought-provoking beauty.
Twisted this way and that, multiple straps around the neckline admittedly might not be the easiest situation to navigate in the morning. But as labels such as Mark Fast, KNWLS, Nensi Dojaka and more proved, the chic and subtly sexy detail is well worth some extra effort.
Chasing That Green
Kelly, lime, mint, army — there was a green for every mood and sensibility on the British runways. A few standouts? The soft pistachio at Rejina Pyo, Christopher Kane’s pastel tones, and Simone Rocha’s incorporation of olive.
Short & Sweet
... and subversive? Picking up where last season’s mini-mania left off, the latest options are super feminine with just a bit of bite, be it high-shine silver (see Nensi Dojaka and Simone Rocha) or bondage-like straps (Christopher Kane).
Best In Chest
Rather than plunging necklines, designers like David Koma and Erdem looked to intricate corsetry, braline cut-outs, and embellished necklines to show cleavage in a cool new way.
One’s All You Need
ICYMI: One-shoulder silhouettes — from Y2K-inspired at David Koma to Grecian goddess-worthy at Interior — have been dominating the shows this LFW. One particular stand out? An elegantly draped long sleeve design at Rejina Pyo that’s destined for more than few cocktail parties.
Denim is getting grungier in a good way thanks to sandblasted, acid wash, and bleach treatments. And while there’s certainly no pressure to give up deep indigo and pristine ecru jeans, why not introduce something new into the mix? There’s just so many fun options to choose from.