Hermès’ Spring/Summer 2022 collection was bright and energizing (Artistic Director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski was literally inspired by the sun). However, for Fall/Winter 2022, the Hermès dresser’s vibe visibly changes. She is not as happy-go-lucky, but more mysterious and slightly reclusive — taking time to reset from an action-packed summer. Vanhee-Cybulski brought a moodier feeling to her autumn lineup as she worked within a color palette containing black, brown, olives, and cool blues. The first look, a formfitting striped jacket and skirt set was inky black, which set the tone for the rest of the show. (The vertical lines were a nod to the horizon and repeated throughout the collection on various pieces.)
Working with black can feel safe and familiar — almost too familiar — but visionaries like Vanhee-Cybulski can always push the boundaries here. The designer did so by debuting must-have smooth buttery blazers, exquisite slim fit coats, and fluid leather tops that moved with the wearer. A black fleece half-zip, which featured an equestrian saddle detail on the front, was styled with an equally dark pair of trousers, thus elevating the idea of athleisure for Hermès’ refined customer base. Meanwhile, black thigh-high boots and minidresses offered a touch of sensuality. (The footwear also served as a solid reminder that this style is poised for a winter comeback.)
As models came down the runway, viewers likely noticed how all the perfectly fitted garments moved on the body, as if there was a wind machine at the end of the runway. (Perhaps there was?) This ease in design is certainly a continuation of Vanhee-Cybulski’s work from her spring collection. “For me it’s really about clothes that enable you to move freely. I think it’s not about going to anything too casual — I think it’s about making an effort, but also the ability to move within your clothes,” she had said to Vogue of the spring 2022 offerings.
The idea of easy dressing and a quiet elegance is translated throughout the fall lineup via long-sleeve bodysuits, sheer dresses, and printed skirts with side slits. “She feels powerful today. Her willowy stride follows a path that could never be undone. Not today. Not ever,” read the show notes. Vanhee-Cybulski wants the Hermès woman to feel in control of her own destiny and taking charge of how she dresses is one way to tap into that confidence. “Wide-eyed, happy, she will walk vaporously ensconced in a loose-fitting, lichen-blue sheepskin reversible coat — powerful, in synergy with her own intensity,” the notes said.
As the presentation concluded, guests who leafed through the show notes will encounter one simple question that stands out: “Where will we be heading tomorrow?” I don’t know about you, but I’ll follow the lead of the Hermès woman. Ahead, see more runway looks from the fashion house’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection.
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