Dior’s Jonathan Anderson Era Is Officially Underway

After months of anxious anticipation and the occasional sneak peek, Jonathan Anderson’s vision for Dior has been cast. And, true to form, said vision is a seamless amalgamation of past and future references, as evidenced by the Irish designer’s inaugural Spring/Summer 2026 women’s ready-to-wear collection. The jam-packed Oct. 1 show — arguably the buzziest of the Paris season — was well attended by both the creme de la creme of Hollywood (Jennifer Lawrence! Greta Lee! Charlize Theron!), as well as fashion insiders, all eager to see Anderson’s story at the French house unfurl.

And while the modern craftsman ship and whimsical silhouettes that brought him so much acclaim during his tenure at Loewe were certainly present (his love for a delicate crinoline skirt and surrealist footwear cannot be denied), it was the poetic homage to Dior greats that truly hit a chord with onlookers.

Harkening back to Christian Dior himself, who was loved and known for his celebratory gowns that honored the female figure, famously cinching at the waist and rounding out in a full, dramatic skirt, Anderson’s A-line midi dresses featured similar silhouettes, accented just so with drape detailing and extravagant bows. Yves Saint Laurent’s more mid-century modern take was nodded to in the lace trapeze frocks and retro bell-shaped pea coats. John Galliano’s famous theatrical mid-’90s stint at Dior came into play via the sculptural tricornes and cape style tops that included structured lace turtlenecks that cover half the face. Even Anderson’s predecessor Maria Grazia Chiuri was honored in the ultra-feminine sheer gowns and dainty floral prints that pointed nicely to her penchant for romanticism.

Again, amidst this intentional march down memory lane, Anderson’s signature playfulness and irreverence were strongly featured, particularly in the more modern elements that juxtaposed more traditional ones. Think bike shorts paired with tuxedo-inspired sweaters, grandiose flowered slippers, and Y2K-style denim cut-off skirts paired with tailored blazers.

Predictably, within hours, nay minutes, the social media feeds were already aflame with hot takes on the collection. Some fashion followers criticized the fresh offering, calling it a “work in progress” and “all over the place,” but a vast majority recognized the foundation Anderson was laying out. It is one that honors and celebrates the evolution of a house that has set the standard for dressing and fashion for nearly 80 years, while also showing glimpses of a hopeful future.

Ahead, highlights from Anderson’s Spring/Summer ready-to-wear debut.