(Skin)

So, You Got A Sunburn — Here’s The Right Way To Heal It

It happens to the best of us.

by Elise Tabin
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How To Heal Sunburn

It’s happened to us all. You spend the day at the beach or pool and swear you covered every square inch of your face and body with your favorite sunscreen, only to discover a painful red sunburn on the surface where you anticipated a bronzy tan. Maybe you forgot to reapply every two hours. Maybe it was one too many Aperol spritzes or that oceanfront nap that put your skin at risk. But no matter the reason, you are now the proud owner of inflamed, scarlet-colored, sunburned skin.

Santa Monica, California, board-certified dermatologist Dr. Ava Shamban, M.D., says sunburns are perhaps the worst patient condition for a dermatologist to see or treat, particularly since they are usually self-inflicted and 100% avoidable. “There is no such thing as a good tan, and no natural sunburn is a ‘healthy glow.’ We all know better and must do better with the tools we have today, including sunscreen; sun avoidance; monitoring the UV index; wearing UPF clothing, hats, and sunglasses; to protect our skin.”

Sporting a sunburn is probably not the look you are going for this summer, but there’s no reason to freak out just yet. While most burns subside on their own, there are plenty of tricks and tips as well as dos and don’ts to help heal the skin and get it back to healthy. Ahead, TZR taps three dermatologists for their expert insights on how to properly deal with sunburned skin and minimize damage while speeding up the healing process.

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Sunburn Basics 101

Scottsdale, Arizona, double board-certified dermatologist Dr. Karan Lal, D.O., explains that a sunburn occurs when radiation damages the DNA in skin cells, triggering an inflammatory response that results in the characteristic redness, pain, and blistering. “There is cytotoxicity happening at the cellular level where skin cells undergo cell death from the UV radiation,” he says.

A sunburn happens for one of two reasons: Either the skin isn’t protected with sunblock or not enough of it is applied (or reapplied), rendering it red, inflamed, itchy, peeling, uncomfortable, and in some cases, blistered and swollen — all the key hallmarks of a typical sunburn. Fever, pain, chills, nausea, headaches, and general discomfort can also accompany sunburned skin.

While it’s impossible to pinpoint exactly how much sun exposure is necessary to instigate a sunburn since Lal says some people burn within 15 minutes of being in the sun while others take longer for a sunburn to develop due to basal melanin content and UV radiation levels, it’s repeat DNA damage that leads to a buildup of mutations in the skin. “Over time, these mutations predispose the skin to aging and skin cancer,” he shares. The damage not only compromises the DNA but can also affect proteins and lipids in the skin, which are necessary for a solid structure and natural youthfulness. “If skin cells cannot repair themselves, they are more prone to skin cancer and premature aging, which includes fine lines, wrinkles, sunspots, and uneven skin texture,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Corey L. Hartman, M.D., and the founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama. “That’s why people who tanned a lot as teens look much older in their 30s, 40s, and 50s compared to those who protected their skin from the sun when they were younger.”

While most sunburns heal on their own, it’s nearly impossible to target DNA mutations and undo the damage. It’s also difficult to determine precisely when sun damage begins or how much exposure leads to it, since the amount of sun exposure and time required to cause a burn varies from person to person, Shamban says. That’s why dermatologists always recommend wearing broad-spectrum sunscreen daily.

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The Dos & Don’ts Of Treating A Sunburn

Rule No. 1 when recovering from a sunburn is to baby the skin and treat it with plenty of anti-inflammatory and hydrating ingredients. There are also several dos and don’ts to follow to ensure the skin heals properly and returns to a healthier state.

Do:

No. 1: Stick To Cool Or Room Temperature Water

Just as certain ingredients can exacerbate sunburned skin, the same applies to water temperature. Hartman says showering or bathing in cool, not cold (since it can shock the skin) water will help release some of the heat in the skin and alleviate any discomfort.

No. 2: Apply Cold Compresses To The Skin

One of the oldest tricks in the book is to apply a damp, cold soft washcloth or rag to a sunburn, which Hartman shares can reduce heat in the skin. Or soak a washcloth in full-fat milk, rich in skin-healing vitamins, let it harden in the freezer for an hour, and then apply it to the skin as a compress to help calm any redness and irritation.

You can also apply chilled Greek yogurt to sunburned skin to achieve a similar effect or opt for a premade post-sun skin helper like Korres Greek Yoghurt Nourishing Gel Cream. “Greek yogurt can help cool a sunburn and lower inflammation,” Shamban shares. “It also contains good probiotics, which can help promote healing and fight off bacteria. But it has lactic acid in it too, a light yet mild exfoliant, so make sure the skin is not blistering before applying it so that you do not remove any of the skin’s layers.”

No. 3: Treat The Skin With Topical Antioxidants

To help heal the skin, apply serums or creams containing anti-inflammatory ingredients that help reduce redness and provide some relief. Lal recommends pure aloe vera as a skin-soothing agent and topical steroids, such as 1% hydrocortisone, to help treat the resulting inflammation from a sunburn, both of which he considers the backbone of sunburn treatment. “I also like Avene Cicalfate Restorative and Protective Cream, which has been studied on inflamed skin.” Serums containing green tea, such as Exponent Calm Revival Green Tea Resveratrol Serum, also help reduce inflammation in the skin caused by UV exposure while providing a soothing effect.

No. 4: Layer On Plenty Of Moisturizer

No matter whether a sunburn appears on your face or body, it’s essential to apply a good moisturizer to help calm the skin and restore hydration, as a sunburn depletes the skin of its natural moisture supply. Hartman suggests using gentle moisturizers with ingredients such as aloe vera, soy, hyaluronic acid, and glycerin, applied at least twice a day, to help replenish moisture in the skin. “Vitamin E is also helpful to use since it combats free-radical damage while hydrating the skin, so you get a dual benefit from it.”

No. 5: Treat Your Scalp

If you neglected to wear a hat or apply sunscreen to your part and hairline, you’ll want to help heal the affected skin. To alleviate flaking and peeling, use a scalp serum such as Nutire T.2 Night Restoring Scalp Serum, which hydrates the scalp and relieves any discomfort.

No. 6: Apply Calamine Lotion As Needed

For persistent itching, Shamban recommends calamine lotion, such as Caladryl Clear Topical Skin Protectant, which contains zinc carbonate and ferric acid, to soothe and calm the skin. “It also helps reduce inflammation from the sunburn, too,” she adds.

No. 7: Drink Water

When the skin is sunburned, it’s essential to stay hydrated and drink plenty of water, as the burn can deplete the body of moisture and cause dehydration. “It’s important to drink a lot of water since it helps replace water lost from the burn,” Hartman says.

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Don’t:

No. 1: Pick At Peeling Skin Or Pop Blisters

For starters, never pick or peel a sunburn, which can only make things worse. Hartman says doing so disrupts the body’s natural healing process. “By peeling the skin, you also expose fresh, new skin to the environment prematurely, making it more susceptible to infection,” he explains. And if the skin has blisters, don’t pop them since popping sun blisters can lead to prolonged healing, infection, scarring, and pigmentation. Instead, Shamban recommends treating blisters with an antibiotic ointment and bandage.

No. 2: Exfoliate Compromised Skin

Sunburned skin is inflamed, and any type of exfoliating acid, ingredient, or product is off limits until the skin has healed and returned to normal. Hartman advises avoiding products with retinols, retinoids, or acids like AHAs and BHAs, which can further irritate the skin as it attempts to repair itself and heal. He also recommends avoiding alcohol and witch hazel since both can burn the skin and further aggravate it.

No. 3: Use Fragranced Products

Lal suggests steering clear of topical products that contain fragrance, as this can cause irritated or burned skin. Perfume and fragranced body lotions are also on the do-not-use list, as they can potentially cause an allergic reaction and impede healing.

No. 4: Put Ice On A Sunburn

Shamban insists on abstaining from icing sunburned skin, even if it feels good, since it can further exacerbate the issue and even cause frostbite. You can, however, treat the affected areas with a cool compress or tepid bath water.

No. 5: Use Occlusive Products

While sunburned skin can feel like it’s desperate for a thick, occlusive ointment to remedy any discomfort and make it feel soft and smooth again, Shamban advises against applying anything occlusive to the skin, such as petroleum-based products, which can trap heat within the skin.

No. 6: Go Back In The Sun

The best way to help heal a sunburn is to avoid the sun entirely. “You want to stay out of the sun as the skin is healing and recovering,” Shamban says. “Protection and avoidance are key.”

When To See A Dermatologist

Any sunburn is never to be taken lightly, but there are times when you'll want to enlist the help of a professional to help heal the skin. Hartman says to see a board-certified dermatologist if a sunburn causes the skin to peel or blister, or if there is pain you can’t manage with over-the-counter medication and skin care. “If you have a fever or signs of infection, see your dermatologist,” he shares. “Also, if you feel you have symptoms of sun poisoning and you cannot keep down food or water, go to the emergency room immediately.”

Sunburns increase the risk of skin cancer (even after the skin is healed), which is why Lal recommends a skin check with your dermatologist. “UV radiation can also induce other skin conditions, such as vitiligo, which may not be noticeable to the naked eye,” he adds.

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How To Undo The Damage

Fixing sun-damaged skin can be challenging, but with the right plan of attack and insight from your dermatologist, you can improve the appearance of photoaging. However, Lal points out that no treatment will reverse sun damage that persists at a cellular level.

Once the skin has fully healed from the sunburn, there are several options available to help reduce the appearance of premature aging. Professionally administered treatments that help improve the look of sunburned and photodamaged skin include Fraxel, which Shamban says helps remodel collagen and stimulate cellular turnover along with DNA repair, and ablative and fractional CO2 lasers to eliminate layers of damaged skin or create controlled wounds to support healing and repair. Intense pulsed light (IPL) and broadband light (BBL) treatments also have their place, as they target unwanted pigmentation and discoloration using light therapy. Lal adds that data supports the concept that BBLs can help reduce the amount of DNA damage from sun exposure.

Nonpeeling chemical peels are another option for improving stubborn discoloration and pigmentation. The new downtime-free FactorFive Renew Dermal Solution Treatment combines professional chemical exfoliation with human stem cell factors to provide a total skin-restoring solution that signals skin remodeling and restoration. Hartman also recommends microdermabrasion to improve skin texture and address pigment concerns.

In-office treatments aside, there’s no discounting the power of topical ingredients. Prescription-strength retinoids help to speed up skin cell turnover, decrease pigment, and stimulate collagen production. There’s also PRX DermPerfexion, which Shamban calls “an amazing topical bio-stimulator treatment that can help reverse the symptoms and signs of sun exposure and damage by infusing trichloroacetic acid, hydrogen peroxide, and kojic acid into the skin.”