There comes a moment at the end of New York Fashion Week when beauty editors are craving a bit more drama from the makeup they’re seeing backstage before the shows. There’s nothing wrong with dewy skin, a hint of lip balm, and not much else, but as true beauty nerds, we want something to really dazzle us. It’s a runway show, for crying out loud! Luckily, on Tuesday, that shift started off with the glitter brows at Peter Do and ended with a striking silvery glitter eyeshadow look at Tory Burch, courtesy of makeup legend Diane Kendal.
Even if you’ve never considered wearing a metallic or glittery eye look before, the Spring/Summer ‘23 show looked both incredibly cool and elevated — not surprising when Kendal is leading the glam team.
“Every single show I’ve done this year, the inspiration has been the ‘90s,” she tells TZR backstage, prior to the collection’s debut. “Whether it’s the David Lynch aspect of film or the English David Sims, Mario Sorrenti, basically that reaction to what happened in the ‘80s, like full on base, powder, whereas in the ‘90s, whether it was super wet and shiny or semi matte, but with those strategic [highlight] places.”
The artist worked with Clé de Peau products and focused first on getting each model’s skin prepped for a luminous finish, using the Intensive Brightening Mask and Volumizing Cream Supreme for a boost of hydration, then the Enhancing Eye Contour Cream Supreme under the eyes to improve any puffiness or dark circles. For anyone that needed a bit more coverage (it has been a long week, after all) she then used the Radiant Fluid Natural Foundation SPF 20.
Next, Kendal applied Clé de Peau Cream Blush in Cranberry across the cheeks and temples “to enhance that glow,” the Luminizing Face Enhancer in Golden Galaxy 202 and Shooting Star 22, and then brushed up the brows and used a brown or black Perfect Lash Mascara to help define the eyes. And, wow, the eyes!
About half the models in the show then received this swoon-worthy silver glitter eye. “In the collection there is a lot of mirror clothing, silver reflective, and [the Tory team] just thought it would be fun to see,” says Kendal. “We’re mixing a silver and copper metallic [eyeshadow as the base], because you know sometimes silver can go very blue, so we wanted to take that blue down and make it more of a champagne silver so it’s a little more flattering. Then we’re putting eyelash glue on top of that. And we’re applying very chunky glitter with a brush.” (For anyone curious to try the look at home, Kendal recommends an oil cleanser to gently remove the glitter flakes and glue.)
She kept the glitter just at the crease of the eye, no too far above or below so you can still see it when the eyes are open. “If you do it too small you miss it, so it’s about getting that balance of making it be a statement without it being so theatrical,” Kendal reveals. “Some girls can carry a wing and others it doesn’t look as good, so [how far it extends out] it’s according to the eye shape.”
With such a strong moment on the eyes, the lips didn’t need much, just a glossy hint of color with Clé de Peau Lip Glorifier in Coral 3 and Neutral Pink 4. Paired with another stunning collection from Tory, my beauty editor soul finally soured above my body with joy. All it needed was a little (OK, a lot) of sparkle.