Backstage at Anna Sui’s S/S ‘22 show, industry legend Pat McGrath is holding court with several eager beauty editors. “It’s summery and a reference to not necessarily a specific destination, but going to a place where we all want to be,” she says of the show’s makeup look, which features silvery glitter eyeshadow, flushed pink blush, and radiant skin, with pops of rose shadow to keep everything feeling youthful and fun.
“We’re keeping the skin very sun-kissed and warm with the Sublime Perfection foundation and concealer, and then it’s [Skin Fetish: Divine Blush in Cherish] on the apples of the cheeks, sweeping backwards,” she says. “On the eyes we have [the rose shadow] Shockwave [from the Mothership IX: Huetopian Dream palette] mixed with Rose Seduction [shadow] and then topped with silver Sterling [from the Mothership IV: Decadence palette]. We’re only using the brightest of colors.” Some of the models received a dash of electric blue shadow under the eyes — it depends on their shape — for a floral, exotic touch to complement the designer’s collection.
Indeed the effect is both ethereal and entirely modern, a glimmering example of the carefree joy you might feel while on holiday in the Caribbean.
For the lips McGrath used the LUST: Lip Gloss in Pale Fire Nectar to provide a soft glittery finish, and a dash of Dark Star Mascara on the lashes. The brows she left bare, brushing them upward to keep them full, fluffy, and groomed.
Next came the hair, which for some models was topped with a colorful straw hat, a matching headscarf, or a knit wrap. “Our inspiration was Chase [Sui Wonders] from Generation on HBO, who happens to be Anna’s niece,” says lead hairstylist and co-founder of R+Co, Garren. “Because that’s the generation that we’re working with here — Generation Z.”
He explains that, together with the designer, they decided that the hair would be reminiscent of what modern youth are actually wearing, and polishing it up just slightly. Some models got a half-up-half-down look while others had a full bubble bun. “But the big deal is having these two tendrils in the front going over their eyes — that cool chick kind of thing,” says Garren.
To keep the hair looking natural and undone, he says, “I used the R+Co Bleu Surreal Styling Serum, which has a little more grit to it. It’s gel-like but it dries very soft. So if you have any hair that is a little out of control and you want to calm down the curl, you would apply this throughout your whole head and it would dry and keep the curl formation.” For those with shorter hair, he kept the texture natural but moisturized, allowing each model’s features to take center stage.
The stylist then used a large rubber elastic, looping the ends of the hair around to create a bubble bun, tugging at the knot to give it a loose and undone look, then securing it with bobby pins. It’s the sort of effortlessly stylish look that many teens may have tried to create in the mid-’90s with varying degrees of success.
Even if your bun technique isn’t up to par with Garren’s, all you need is to pull out a few front tendrils from the hair and boom, instant cool factor. Add in plenty of glittery eyeshadow, a glossy lip, and a glowing complexion and you have a fun, fresh look that will help you feel like summer isn’t over quite yet.