The Signature Scent Is Dead, May It Rest In Peace

I’m not a monogamist. Well, let me be more specific — I’m not a scent monogamist. Nowadays, I don’t know a single person who is. Every time I open TikTok I’m greeted with beautifully curated perfume libraries organized by color and/or brand, along with creators sharing their “fragrance lineups of the week,” which rarely feature any repeats. My friends and I frequently dish about what scents we want to add to our collections, too, albeit at a much smaller scale than the die-hard perfume aficionados.

This is a far cry from how those around me viewed fragrance when I was growing up, and I’m sure many people can relate. In decades past, individuals most often chose one signature scent and stuck with it, or shuffled between two or three max, depending on the season or occasion. I knew my aunt had arrived at a function when Philosophy Amazing Grace tickled my nose. I’ve only known my father to wear one scent — Ralph Lauren Polo Eau de Toilette — which he discovered in high school and hasn’t strayed from in over 40 years.

Those who I see in my day-to-day life undoubtedly smell incredible, but I’m unable to pinpoint a scent that’s theirs. No one wears a distinct fragrance that makes it easy to register their presence before I physically see them (except maybe my ex, and I’d prefer to keep him, as well as his cologne, in the past). Instead, everyone seems to shuffle through their liquid treasure troves to find the perfume that matches their mood, outfit, location, climate, or aura, every single day.

The signature scent might not technically be dead (yet), but it may as well be on life support. “Scent today is more fluid, more playful. It’s not about consistency; it’s about curation and having the right note for the right moment — not just one for every moment,” says Gustavo Romero, founder of the Fragrance Alliance Network.

The Rise Of Scent Wardrobes

This fresh outlook on scent didn’t materialize overnight. The fragrance category overall has gone through a bit of a rebirth, and it all started with the post-Covid perfume boom. People began leaning on olfactives to boost their mood and spark joy following the uncertainty caused by the pandemic. Plus, there was also a sense of comfort that came from sniffing perfumes after temporarily losing the ability to smell due to the disease. Fragrance was also the fastest growing beauty sector in 2024, growing 7.4%, according to WWD, and sales are forecasted to continue growing from $53 billion to $80 billion by 2030.

This, paired with the rise of niche perfumes, the growing popularity of layering, and the flood of scent content online has fueled a new era of fragrance obsession, says Mona Kattan, founder of Kayali. “Scent is becoming an extension of identity and finally being appreciated for what it really is: an emotional accessory that helps you feel more connected to yourself and the moment you’re in.”

I’ve held this stance on scent long before #Perfumetok ever existed. Signature scent, who? I’ve personally never had one. I began curating a perfume anthology when I was 13. It mainly consisted of Bath & Body Works body mists, but there were also a few high-end eau de parfums in the mix — like the original Chanel Chance and Lady Gaga Fame, which will always hold a special place in my heart.

Scent Wardrobes & Individuality

But it’s never been about having the largest pool of options. As Romero puts it, “perfume lets you shift, flex, and perform; you can direct your narrative, bottle by bottle.” Whatever fragrance I end up spritzing sets my emotional tone for the day, and allows me to express the version of myself I want to articulate. When I need a boost of confidence, I grab an extra cozy mist — usually something with cinnamon, caramel, and vanilla — to help me feel at ease and grounded. On the flip side, if I know I’m on my A-game, I reach for a scent that inconspicuously magnifies my aura. Perfumes with notes of orris, sandalwood, and amber tend to match my self-assured energy.

Think about it: you don’t wear the exact same outfit every day, do you? Our closets are filled with an array of clothing for different climates and occasions, and Kattan reckons our fragrance wardrobes should be just as dynamic. “Having a collection allows you to express yourself more intentionally and connect deeper with how you feel.”

I don’t believe one singular perfume has the ability to accurately portray my kaleidoscopic existence — or anyone’s for that matter. “We, as humans, contain multitudes and are ever-evolving,” says Emma Vernon, host of the Perfume Room Podcast. “Fragrance lets you express the many sides of who you’ve been, who you are, and who you want to be.”

The Art Of Building A Scent Wardrobe

Building out a fragrance wardrobe to satisfy your various moods doesn’t mean succumbing to overconsumerism, though. The excessive shelves that line the background of some scent-fluencers’ videos aren’t attainable for the average person. Perfume is a luxury, and bottles can get pretty pricey. “It’s entirely possible and realistic to assemble a well-rounded and expressive wardrobe with just a handful of thoughtfully chosen scents,” explains Vernon. Our experts say an assortment of five to 10 scents is plenty to capture your multifaceted essence.

And when it comes to selecting the olfactives for your personal scent library, there are no hard and set rules. “The goal isn’t to tick boxes; it’s to have something that gives you that perfect finishing touch,” urges Romero. “If a fragrance makes you feel more like you, it belongs in your rotation.” Follow your nose and tune into your body — I know a scent will be a vital addition when it stirs up euphoric feelings.

Fundamentally, that’s the beauty of perfume. “Fragrance can shift your energy, your mindset, your whole vibe,” says Kattan. “So why limit yourself to just one ‘signature scent’ when life is filled with so many different moments and emotions?”