How To Create Full Brows Like A Runway Makeup Artist
The evolution of brows dates back decades and decades. There were the barely there brows of the '90s, the ultra-filled defined brows of '00s, and now, the feathery natural brow look has taken over. However, it's not easy to figure out how to create a full brow without occasionally going overboard, and the experts are helping with that.
"I think for a while now, the trend in beauty has migrated away from everyone striving for a singular ideal and toward striving solely for what suits a person’s individuality," Anastasia Soare, eyebrow expert and founder of Anastasia Beverly Hills says. "This includes a return to lush brows that better complement and bring harmony to the face. Plus, with face mask requirements here to stay for the foreseeable future, expertly crafted brows that frame the half of your face left exposed have never been more important."
And Mali Thomas, makeup artist to Tiffany Haddish and Nicki Minaj, and Bobbi Brown global artist agrees. "I think fuller brows made a comeback because we are more focused on natural beauty," she says. "We want to brush our brows and go; fuller brows will always look youthful and naturally frame the face."
Ahead, check out how to create a luxurious brow without getting too heavy-handed.
How To Create Full Brows: Do An Ombre Fill
Soare's most critical advice is to get lighter in application the closer you get to the front of the brows. "My biggest tip is that brows should be filled in ombre to look their most natural," she says. "To achieve this effect, go in with a light hand and start applying product at the arches, working towards the tail. Then, with the last bit of remaining product, fill in the inner part of the brow. This ombre mimics the density and shadow of naturally full brows."
And Thomas says the easiest way to ensure a light application is keeping your brow brush near. "Brush your brows and take a look at what is missing," Thomas says. "Try not to over fill and only apply what's necessary. Keep in mind this takes practice so be patient. I prefer using as little product as possible for the inner brow and gradually building more definition for the outer brow."
How To Create Full Brows: Measure Your Brows
The thicker the brows, however, the more important it is to create symmetry. "The key to unlocking your perfect brow is the ABH Golden Ratio Shaping Technique, which relies on three measurements: brows should begin directly above the middle of your nostrils, brows should end where the corner of the nostril connects with the outer corner of the eye, and the highest point of the arch should connect the middle of the tip of the nose with the middle of the iris," Soare says.
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How To Create Full Brows: Working With Naturally Thin Brows
For those with much thinner brows, creating a full look can often result in an overly sculpted appearance. To fix that, Soare suggests layering multiple formulas. "You can build dimension by using several products," she says. "I recommend starting with a brow primer to make sure your powder product adheres and lasts all day. Then, take a brow brush and dip into brow powder, dispersing the arch to the tail, working in the direction of the hair’s natural growth." Then, to create the ombre effect, Soare suggests dipping back into a lighter color to fill in the front half of the brow. From there, she suggests going in with a more detailed product like a brow pencil or pen to create hairlike strokes. "Lastly, top with a clear brow gel to set the color for the day."
"Our new Brow Pen creates the thinnest strokes of hair yet for incredibly realistic detail and dimension," Soare says.
With growth peptides and glycerine and olive oil, this brow treatment is ideal for creating the full, brushed-up brow look.
For those who sweat a little more, this waterproof, tinted eyebrow gel leaves brows unbreakable. Once set, it can last for up to 16 hours.