Fall may have only just begun, but the focus has already shifted to what’s in store for spring. Fashion Month is in the rearview mirror and it’s time to digest the new collections and revisit the key motifs and standout looks that dominated the runways. It’s almost torturous, really, to get excited about light, bright color palettes, fresh floral prints, and vacation-ready accessories right as the temperatures start to take a nosedive. But — though you'll have to wait till next year to wear those delicate crochet flats models wore at The Row, Spring 2020’s runway jewelry trends are wearable (and shoppable) right now.
The spring shows delivered plenty of adornments that made a bold statement, but still felt cool and modern. Size and shape are key elements of the season, with styles skewing towards the big and the sculptural, from the huge gold hoops at Proenza Schouler, to the chunky chains at Bottega Veneta and Brandon Maxwell, and the structural, shoulder-skimming earrings at Jil Sander and Valentino.
If you’re itching for a quick style refresher in the wake of the Fashion Month frenzy, below are eight spring jewelry trends that you don’t have to wait until March to try.
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When models hit the runway at Proenza Schouler’s spring show in New York, all eyes were on the ultra-thick gold power hoops hanging from their ears. Supersize hoops popped up elsewhere as well, with delicate chain details at Boss, in flattened brass at Sies Marjan, and '80s-style in the form of lion-head door-knockers at Balenciaga.
Chunky chains haven taken the place of dainty jewelry more and more lately, and if the recent runways are any indication, the trend is only going to gain steam in the coming seasons. There were thick metal styles at Brandon Maxwell and Bottega Veneta, oversized links at Zimmermann, and colorfully crafty chains at Ports 1961.
The new wave of pearl jewelry is sleek and modern — and miles away from anything you might find in your grandma’s jewelry box. At Jason Wu, petite polished pearls were done in dainty asymmetrical earring sets, while at Prabal Gurung the look was edgy and sculptural, with pearl-capped ear cuffs and sculptural earrings featuring lustrous gems suspended along the wire loops. Other labels, like Burberry and Tory Burch, embraced the natural beauty of pearls in their raw, organic form.
Spring always encourages a renewed appreciation for bright color stories, and that applies to jewelry as well. Breaking from the metalwork motifs that defined many of the jewelry trends this fashion month, a crop of colorful jewels emerged. At Brandon Maxwell, a rainbow array of gemstones were piled on in all forms from the ears to the wrists, while Jeremy Scott’s Picasso-inspired collection for Moschino featured bold, costume-y bijoux with multicolored cabochons set in heavy hammered brass. Crystal-encrusted cameo necklaces at Anna Sui had a decadent, baroque feel, and at Ulla Johnson, the trend got a romantic twist thanks to candy-hued glass and floral details that felt bohemian and feminine.
There's something avant-garde and unexpected about wearing just one earring. A matching set of statement earrings makes an impact, but a single sculptural earring breaks the rules for an even bolder effect. Test-drive the look with a shoulder-dusting drop style, à la JW Anderson, or an ornamental chandelier in the vein of Valentino's intricate gold creations. Or just pop on a cool, oversized hoop and lean into the modern appeal of this asymmetrical moment.
There's something about a structured metal collar that appeals to both maximalist and minimalist sensibilities. The trend caters to the maximalist's need for something spectacular that grabs the eye, while suiting the minimalist's desire for something sleek, streamlined, and easy to wear with anything in their wardrobe. For spring, standout examples included the sculptural leaf-like collars at 3.1 Phillip Lim, Alberta Ferretti's graduated metal bib, the thick gold chokers (at times styled with matching cuffs) at Elie Saab, and Gucci's more detailed, antique silver rendition.
Jewelry and shoes elide with this new approach to embellishment. All through fashion month, jewelry was showing up on shoes in addition to the usual spots like the neck and wrists. Continuing the trend that Daniel Lee launched last season with Bottega Veneta's popular chain-adorned mesh pumps, many designers garnished the shoes in their spring lineup with metal links and crystal strands. You can also DIY this look by adding an anklet or looping a chain through and around the straps of a pair of heels.
The Earring As Art
Sculptural, art-inspired earrings continued to be a favorite across a number of runways. Similar to the single-earring trend, this take that turns your earlobes into a home for pieces that transcend fashion and feel precious enough to be shown off at home. Often styled with minimalist basics, these earrings can make an entire outfit.