There’s no arguing that Miu Miu’s viral low-slung pleated miniskirt was 2022’s It item. The fervor for this look propelled Miuccia Prada to recreate the magic in her Spring 2023 collection, introducing a pocket-heavy iteration on the micro mini to the delight of many fans. However, the creative director is aware a look can only remain relevant for so long, especially in today’s age of “cores.” Thus, in a maybe-not-so-shocking turn of events, Miu Miu’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection abandoned itty-bitty minis altogether in favor of knee-length hemlines.
Traditional bottoms, in general, were scarce in this collection. But honestly, why wear trousers or skirts when you can step out in Miu Miu’s fabulous crystal undies? And since Prada is well-versed in creating the fashion scene’s next must-have piece, this certainly won’t be the last time you see the light-reflecting bottoms. If you’re wondering how to wear them, she made a strong case for going out in public in not one but two pairs of panties layered over tights and styled with a buttoned-up cardigan or turtleneck sweater.
In the same bare-it-all realm, sheerness was a prominent theme this season, too — nearly half of the 65 looks exhibited some form of transparency. For starters, see-through halter dresses were enlivened with romantic flower embellishments while knee-length skirts, made from what seemed to be stockings-like material, were feathery light. The majority of these revealing outfits were styled with underwear and colorful tights, with the beloved Miu Miu logo shining through the garments.
Amongst all the sheer pieces, Prada inserted several unexpected looks fans of the label might not have predicted: athleisure-inspired silhouettes. The creative ushered in neutral zip-up hoodies worn underneath blazers and leggings paired with the newly released Miu Miu x New Balance sneakers. The spruced-up, designer loungewear would make for a chic airport look or as a dressed-down work outfit for Fridays, when no one’s in the office.
As always, there was a strong focus on accessories — a staple category for the fashion house. The brand’s Matelassé shoulder bags made an appearance, some of which featured a leather key strap. For footwear, options erred on the side of minimalism as there were no polarizing boots with an open-toe thong; rather kitten heels had three sleek straps or a dainty bow while wearable loafers featured two silver buckles.
Lastly, it wouldn’t be a proper Paris Fashion Week show without a star-studded cast. Prada tapped English actor Mia Goth to open the presentation — she wore a luxe cardigan and sheer skirt look. The Crown actor Emma Corrin closed the catwalk in a beige sweater and glittery gold underwear. Also in the impressive model lineup? Zaya Wade, 15, who made her runway debut while her famous parents Gabrielle Union and Dwyane Wade showed their support from the front row.
Ahead, find several of TZR’s favorite looks from Miu Miu’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection.