The penultimate show in Paris Fashion Week’s eight-day run, Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection ended things with a bang — well, actually, a ball. Always one to engage past, present, and future elements into his collections, creative director Nicolas Ghesquière (who has been with the iconic fashion house since 2013) delivered on these exact things — and then some. Complete with elaborate jewel-bedecked sunglasses, dramatic capes, and structured bustle skirts, the Oct. 5 presentation at the Louvre (a favored venue for the brand) was a fantastical mix of Old World Parisian masquerade and 21st-century party dressing.
Expanding on last season’s theme of escapism, the label’s spring collection spirited onlookers away with its sculptural tailoring, elaborate accessories, and fresh takes on archival items from the fashion house. And, of course, some key trends for the season ahead were gracefully introduced, in true LV fashion. “A desire for transmission. The Spring/Summer 2022 collection is an invitation to le grand bal of Time,” read the official show notes for the spring presentation. “Tonight, time is of no consequence. Yet time is everything. It dissolves functions and codes. It unites wardrobes. Day becomes night. The humble uniform becomes sumptuous.”
Sumptuous indeed. From entrée to finis the runway was illuminated by all manner of sparkling ensembles, with models draped in lace, sequins, and metallic silk gowns that fell dramatically over structured skirts reminiscent of 18th-century fashion. Layered with oversized, boxy tuxedo blazers, silk and mesh capes, and dramatic bib-collared tops, the looks read fresh and aligned with the carefree, jovial dressing that will define 2022.
Adding to the evening masquerade vibe was the onslaught of bedazzled accessories. Ranging from elaborately winged eyewear and sunglasses to beaded, bonnet-like headpieces, these statement items elevated otherwise simplistic combos of satin blazers and dark-wash denim, for a fresh spin on “business-casual.”
Ghesquière’s goal of showcasing style “from yesterday to today” materialized beautifully, while simultaneously signaling some key trends for the new year. The first was the obvious dress and denim styling combo seen showcased throughout. Slinky satin slips were draped over relaxed, straight-leg jeans in a look that teleports one to the early years of the new millennium. Also, another ode to the 2000s was the gladiator sandals that marched down the runway in multiple iterations ranging from pearl and grommet embellishments to vibrant satin.
And while patterns and neon colors were sparse (but still present), a whimsical polka dot print managed to peek through the sea of neutrals and metallics, reading like a strategically placed exclamation point in the collection. (Perhaps a subtle nod to a quintessential French print?)
Tying in the show’s retro-modern theme nicely was the subtle homage to the brand’s luggage-making roots via fresh (and more compact) versions of the traditional trunk bags, Sirius suitcase, classic pochette style, and Cannes bag. Perhaps these new additions are what the brand meant in “Leading the countdown and staying one step ahead. The transformative creative fusion of generations.” In true Vuitton fashion, these new items are sure to hit It-bag status immediately.