It was just a few weeks ago that Maria Grazia Chiuri debuted Dior’s Cruise 2022 collection in Greece — sending model-cum-goddesses down the runway. For the iconic house’s Haute Couture collection, it’s a return to a more serious business. Sharply tailored coats, nipped-waist dresses, and thick textured fabrics made up the looks du jour.
“The return to ‘being present’ implies shifting attention to a tactile materiality,” read the show notes. “Translating this materiality in the virtual age also means reinterpreting embroidery: not just as a decorative ornament, but as an element connected to the senses of sight and touch.”
The book Threads of Life by Clare Hunter was a pivotal element in creating Chiuri’s latest sartorial universe, motivating her to explore the intricacies of not only embroidery but also weaving and the textures of fabric. The collection is one fit for the Fall explorer. It looks sturdy, almost armor-like, with boxy body-encompassing outerwear and dresses that while sheer and lightweight, are tailored and stitched to feel more substantial than their material might suggest.
While as recently as the last couture show in January, Dior’s celebrity fan base took in the collection like everyone else — tuning into the livestream from home. But, as Paris begins to reopen for visitors, the July show attracted A-listers including Jennifer Lawrence, Katy Perry, and Florence Pugh (all of whom were shot outside the show for TZR by photographer Darrel Hunter). With red carpet events returning, it’s not a stretch to expect one of these stylish women to wear Haute Couture looks almost immediately post runway.
But, for the customer without a red carpet event to attend, there’s plenty of inspiration to glean from the collection. Firstly, it’s always worth taking a look at the footwear choices at Dior: namely a Mary Jane-Brogue hybrid that’s easy to envision dressing up or down. But, it’s also worth noting the sheer slippers that Chiuri chose to style with the elegant dresses of the collection. Formal dressing may be back, but these days it comes with concessions — heels are not a requisite. It’s also par for the course at Dior to incorporate a waist belt into both dressier and more daytime looks. Here, belting thick, layered coats serves as a way to create curves.
Below, see more from the collection — you may just want to start working on your coat collection now.