Chanel Is Celebrating The Fabric That Made The Brand Iconic
Long live the tweed.
Scotland was on the mind of designer Virginie Viard when envisioning the Fall/Winter 2022 collection for CHANEL. More specifically, the time when Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel would spend her time along the River Tweed and draw inspiration from the landscape, bringing back ferns and bouquets of flowers to the local artisans to present the colors she wanted for the tweed fabrics that would make up the iconic suiting synonymous with her name.
“Allowing for infinite combinations of colours and materials, tweed is an eternal code for the House: ‘I love working with it so much, I couldn’t live without it at CHANEL ... Devoting the entire collection to tweed is a tribute,’” read the show notes, quoting Viard.
And tweed there was, from dresses to coats, bubblegum pink to dusty lilac. But, there was so much more. In this 70-look collection there were also gorgeous marbled knitwear, buttery leather mini dresses, and lamé evening wear in languid silhouettes. And, there were the thigh-high galoshes — a nod to Coco’s affinity for fishing when in The Highlands. While one may not have fishing on their mind when considering whether to invest in these chic rubber boots (they come in beige and black) marked with the noticeable C logo, one may consider how to pair these must-have boots for fall — for the fashion circuit, these will most certainly be the boots fought over by stylists when it comes time to shoot the fall fashion editorials. May the show serve as a reference; the boots were worn over pants and with mini hemlines, a trend that’s still going strong for fall. For those less adventurous when it comes to the over-the-knee style, there were also the mid-calf versions of these wellies, too.
And longer length skirts, with matching jackets of course, that were prim and lady-like, reminiscent of the time and fashion when Coco was alive. While the designs skewed more demure, the accessories and layering of jewelry leaned more youthful and eclectic (hello, CHANEL airpod case necklace). Models walked down one-by-one in perfectly coiffed hair in a cascade of rich, vibrant hued ribbed hosiery, ranging from heathered teal to french violet. It was reflective of “England in the 1960s,” Viard notes.
Then, there were the silhouettes that are slightly oversized, for a more masculine feel, as if you’re wearing your boyfriend’s coat. “There’s nothing sexier than wearing the clothes of the person you love,” says Viard, “Of course, I’m fascinated by this ever contemporary gesture.”
Evolving the vision for the storied house to 2022 and how women dress now, Viard understands the practicality integral to one’s wardrobe. Dedicating most of the collection to tweed may seem like an overkill to some, but it quite makes sense when considering the durability and longevity of the fabric.
Below, more looks from the Fall Winter 2022 Chanel show.