Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall 2020 Brought An Interesting Twist To Minimal Beauty
If there’s one thing you can count on during fashion month, it’s that Vivienne Westwood’s shows will always delivery some kind of major look. The designer is always known to push the envelope when it comes to looks, and designer Andreas Kronthaler maintained that reputation at the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Fall 2020 show in Paris on February 29. (Bella Hadid was literally done up as a bride carrying a dagger.)
But there was something markedly different from the Vivienne Westwood shows of past — which have shown everything from punky liner to gilded eyebrows. Andreas Kronthaler seemed to influence a touch of minimalism to the hair and makeup this season. But that didn't mean there wasn't a healthy dose of individuality.
"There's not one uniform look," MAC lead makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench's team tells TZR. "The makeup is very inspired by the clothing, which is full of lovely prints and textures, but also a lot of layering."
In that vein, Ffrench opted for what she calls "chandelier skin, which involved gently layering MAC's Reflects Gold Glitter all over the face and body for an etherial glow. Some models' eyes and lips were also done up in gorgeous pastels, like the brand's #Humblebrag eye shadow — a gorgeous lilac.
For some contrast, Ffrench opted for what she calls a "granny coral" lip. But you won't find this shade in a tube — it's actually one of the concealers from the Studio Fix Sculpt And Shape Contour Palette in Medium Dark/Dark.
But not every look was focused on the feminine. "We wanted an element of toughness, too," Ffrench notes. That's why a handful of models had their eyes sculpted with a brown shadow for a more sunken look. To ensure the high points of their face caught the light, Ffrench tapped MAC's new Strobe Glaze in certain areas for dewiness.
The hair toed a similar line between masculine and feminine — mainly because there was no one specific look. "The casting is so diverse that we're going with everyone's individual looks," said lead hairstylist Sam McKnight. Some models had a few pieces of extra-long extensions in contrasting colors clipped into their hair, so it looked more like an accessory.
"Everyone has a different identity, really," McKnight said. So he took every models' hair into account — and either played it up or actively went in the opposite direction of their natural texture. Girls who needed a blowout got blasted with Dyson's Hair Dryer. And on a handful of women with voluminous curls, McKnight backcombed their hair and misted it with his brand's Modern Hairspray.
Vivienne Westwood isn't necessarily synonymous with minimalism. But glittering skin and backcombed hair is about as tame as she's ever gone — so consider this the maximalist's take on minimal makeup.