As evidenced by fine jewelry designer Sophie Bille Brahe’s new white collection, yellow gold’s reign is declining, at least for now. The Copenhagen-born and Royal College of Art-educated designer’s knack for the distinctive is innate — a signature aesthetic composed of small clashes with significant impact. Every ring, necklace, bracelet, and earring has a push-pull effect that’s nothing short of exceptional, demonstrating the foresight in her talent. So, when deciding to reinterpret some of her iconic designs — like the graduating Collier, Bracelet de Tenis, and undulating Ocean Ensemble rings — the most discerning of jewelry lovers are sure to be along for the ride.
Though Bille Brahe isn’t the only one putting out uncolored metals like white gold and silver with greater fervor — the trend has been steadily rising over the past two seasons on designer runways — her take on the materials’ new wave is among the freshest to discover. Keep reading for a conversation between TZR and the designer on how and why the white gold spark ignited. Then, take in an edit of pieces from her new collection — ranging from pearls and diamond earrings to necklaces, bands, and engagement rings — and shop those you can’t live without.
What inspired your first white gold collection? Yellow gold has been a signature of yours and, overall, a huge trend. Why did you choose to work with a new material?
To me, white gold is a classic and timeless material, but it still has an enchanting and capturing look. The white gold collection complements our current fine jewelry collection very well and encompasses our most iconic and classic pieces. It’s a dream that I have had for a long time.
Do you have any personal white gold pieces (that you haven’t designed) or memories surrounding white gold jewelry that are really special to you that perhaps lent themselves to this collection or your design process?
My family has such a special meaning to me, my life, and the jewelry I create. I have a lot of memories surrounding white gold jewelry when visiting my aunt, former Baroness Berit Berner, who at the time was living at Clausholm Castle. With its 14 stucco ceilings, painted panels, and beautiful interiors, it is one of the finest baroque castles in Denmark. Her engagement ring in particular, a beautiful white gold piece, has been a source of inspiration for the collection and has a special meaning to me.
How did you approach re-working your classics like the Croissant de Lune, Bracelet de Tenis, and Peggy necklace in white gold? Was the goal to offer more metal options to take advantage of the rising trend? Or had you been getting a lot of requests for it?
The collection consists of a curated selection of some of our most iconic and classic pieces. I don’t believe in following trends but felt it was a natural choice to add a white gold collection to our fine jewelry selection. White gold is crafted using the rare and valuable metal rhodium to achieve a colorless metal. When combined with diamonds, the material serves as a white backdrop allowing light to be reflected back into the facets of the diamonds, resulting in even more luminous sparkle. I love the clean and industrial look.
What are you noticing from customers shopping for wedding jewelry? Do you have any trend predictions?
There’s a growing interest in classic styles with a modern twist and design-led engagement rings. Strong and bold settings with unique forms have been increasingly popular for us. The Grand Ocean Ensemble ring was given to me by my boyfriend, Jeppe, after the birth of our daughter, Beate. It’s an 18-karat gold ring set with 1.71ct diamonds. It resembles the shape of an ocean wave and brings a twist to the classic ring form. One day I hope to pass it on to Beate.
Can you tell me about the campaign imagery? It so beautifully channels old-world glamour.
The campaign features longtime friend and muse, Emma Rosenzweig. Emma was a natural choice for the campaign, as she was one of our first campaign models when I started Sophie Bille Brahe. We did the shoot on set and went bold, adding more makeup and styling than we usually would have, adding a twist to the classic styles. The campaign is shot by photographer and artist Casper Sejersen, a longtime friend and collaborator.
What’s your advice for those wanting to invest in one piece or two? Do you have a piece you always suggest starting with or favorite styling tips?
I believe in classic and timeless pieces that can be passed down to future generations. I love to pair a casual T-shirt with diamond earrings like my Boucle Ensemble or my pearl Peggy necklace. To me, jewelry is something that should be worn and used every day. I also like to wear my jewelry in subtle locations on the body, on the ankle, or the back of the neck. I like the way the jewelry sits and does not feel too obvious.
We only include products that have been independently selected by TZR's editorial team. However, we may receive a portion of sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.