It may have been raining in London, but inside the Aquatic Center (where swimmers and divers competed for Olympic medals in 2012) it was humid and hot — the ideal setting for a collection that centered on the idea of making a splash. There was the literal splashing: The show opened with three divers flipping their way off of platforms of varying heights. But, Rejina Pyo’s Spring 2022 collection was also awash with splashes of color, surreal collages, and playful cutouts. It’s a collection that celebrates the joy and warmth of a beach vacation.
Pyo opened her show notes with a short quote from a 1964 New Yorker piece by John Cleever. “She had been swimming, and now she was breathing deeply, stertorously, as if she could gulp into her lungs the components of that moment, the heat of the sun, the intenseness of her pleasure. It all seemed to flow into her chest.” It’s a quote that conveys the fresh-from-the-pool energy Pyo pulled into her collection — swimwear, relaxed short suits, and even loose sweater vests included. Pyo created fabrics of collaged images from her own travels to New York and Seoul and layered sheer pieces with light cotton and nylon suits.
Pyo always puts forth collections that masterfully combine bold colors in quirky yet wearable ways, something like a palette lifted from a fruit salad. Styling (which this season Pyo did herself with Isabelle Sayer) is always a strong point for Pyo — the ease in which even more formal pieces are put together makes them feel not only wearable, but versatile. Two contrasting button downs are worn together — one peeking out from under the other. Trousers are layered under a midi dress in complementary neutral tones. In Pyo’s book, you’re meant to get creative when you’re getting dressed.
For those looking to stay ahead of the trends, Pyo’s accessories are always worth noting too — they’re fashion-forward, but are always grounded enough to be worth holding on to beyond a single season. For Spring, she focused in on three sandals styles: a flip flop, rubber-soled slide, and a strappy platform sandal. She also introduced the mini Simone handbag (with a twisted handle), the Fran (a rolled-down tote), and an updated version of the Olivia box bag. The styles, while maybe not geared towards black tie events, are the kind of bags you’d want to flaunt to your friends over an outdoor drink.
While you may not know exactly what your travel plans will be in 2022, Pyo offers the possibility of an escape somewhere warm and sunny. Go ahead, dive in.
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