Always one to indulge himself and those around him in sartorial time travel, it seems Nicolas Ghesquière is up to his old tricks ... in a new way. Yes, Louis Vuitton’s always-curious creative director took his exploration to the next level with a Fall/Winter 2022 collection that was a vibrant and print-filled melding of ‘70s, ‘80s, and even early 2000s metropolitan style. (Somewhere in the world, Diane Keaton is rejoicing.) And, for those who looked closely, it was also a practical lesson in the fine art of fall layering.
On an overcast Paris afternoon, the iconic Musée d’Orsay’s impressive Impressionist art collection took a backseat to Ghesquière labyrinth, with attendees, spread throughout in a maze-like grid for models (including SAG Award winner HoYeon Jung) to navigate. As the music cued the first looks, an Annie Hall-inspired procession gave way. Roomy, high-waisted trousers in pinstriped and neutral colorways were paired with crisp white button-downs, oversized outerwear, and floral-printed ties. The jacket’s rich leather and wool textured paneling made the otherwise classic look feel fresh and maximalist-appropriate. Structure for the billowy silhouettes came in the form of cinched, pleated waists that hugged the body just so.
The latest installment was rooted in, “reconnecting with an instinct for clothing devoid of convention,” read the show notes. “A special moment that belongs to the formative years, the ones that forge character.”
The shape-shifting play continued as Ghesquière reimagined classic fall staples, and gave a worthy lesson in the art of layering. Wool, peplum vests featured fur-lined trains (a dominate trend seen throughout fashion month) that fell nicely over floral trousers. Power suits were seen in more shape-less cuts and in shades of coral and baby blue and worn under more neutral boxy blazers and pea coats. Fluttery, flowing maxi dresses peeked from under shapeless rugby tops,k with patterned sweatshirts tied haphazardly at the waist. And cozy, roomy sweaters were worn under equally spacious printed pinafore dresses.
Even playful separates like sweatshirts, polo shirts, and the aforementioned rugby tops got a fresh take. Graphic prints, neon geometric shapes, checkerboard effects, and candy-colored stripes were seen in abundance, catering to the viral Y2K trend that shows no sign of slowing down. As it happens, the “impermanence and beautiful volatility of adolescence” served as yet another inspiration for Ghesquière for the fall season.
“Testing. Trying. Playing. Knowing. Yearning. Desiring... Wanting it all. Without restrictions,” explained the show notes. “Having the world at your feet. Embracing everything and approaching taste as a personal construct — because character is what guides destiny. Freedom is all, without directive or impediment.”
Indeed, the carefree spirit of the collection was a walking, moving dedication to the next generation of creatives. “This collection is dedicated to youth, in hopes that it can keep the unresolved poetry of adolescence like a flawless garment — in all its vivid romanticism, inspiring idealism, hope for the future, for a better world, and its dreams of perfection.”
See the colorful collection for yourself below.