Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi Debut Is A Meditation On Legacy

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s journey is at a full circle moment. After some 37 years since entering the fashion world, the Italian designer has returned to where it all began: the house of Fendi. Yes, back in 1989, the then fledgling creative began working at the brand as part of its accessories division, cutting her there for a decade, before moving on to creative director roles at Valentino and Dior, the latter of which would be a career-defining stretch. When word hit that Grazia Chiuri would be succeeding Silvia Venturini Fendi, opinions were rampant on what the new vision and chapter would look like. And on Feb 25, the public finally got their answer. At Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2026 show, the new creative director cast a playful, feminine-meets-masculine outlook for the brand, anchored in timeless essentials and silhouettes.

“Less I, more us. A motto that sums up the way she goes about her work and that can also be said to characterize the creative coherence of the five Fendi sisters and the history of the brand,” read the official show notes. “A history that is emblematic of both the Italian and the female way of doing things, and one that needs to be remembered and revived at the House.”

Paying clear homage to her accessory roots at the brand, Grazia Chiuri made bags the ultimate statement piece on the runway. All manner of embellished and textured baguettes were slung around in unexpected color combos and finishes (the furry version, splashed in hues of black, purple, and orange was a particular head-turner).

Leaning into the “us” component for Fall 2026, the designers joined forces with Mirella Bentivoglio for limited edition jewelry, which was originally conceived and designed in the early 1970s. and finally came to life. Grazia Chiuri also tapped young artist Sagg Napoli for slogan tees and scarves with poignant sayings in Italian like “Rooted but not stuck" and "Loyal but not obedient."

A bold through line materialized in the clothing as well, as the designer sent models down the runway in sheer lace fitted gowns and silk slip dresses that nodded to the romantic, ultra-feminine aesthetic she became known for at Dior. A more masculine balance came in the form of the fur-lined, animal print vests that almost read like armor. The androgyny continued with the deconstructed suiting and lapel statement necklaces displayed throughout the collection.

“Every garment we choose not to abandon carries with it a stratification of memories: who gifted it to us, from whom we inherited it, the memory of “that event,” the garment that accompanied our identity over time, but which we must re-adapt to our new sensibilities,” read the notes.

Ahead, highlights from Grazia Chiuri’s Fendi debut that will certainly have people talking for weeks to come.