This Cult-Favorite French Brand’s Serum Smooths Like Retinol Minus The Irritation

In our series Trial Run, TZR editors and writers put the buzziest new beauty products to the test and share their honest reviews. This week, deputy beauty editor Erin Lukas is testing the buzzy Yon-Ka Paris Retinol-Like Bi-Serum.

Retinol is the EGOT winner of skin care ingredients. What makes the vitamin A derivative so elite is that it seemingly can do it all. Yes, retinol can treat a wide range of common skin care concerns such as wrinkles, uneven skin texture, loss of firmness, breakouts, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This impressive list of benefits is why the ingredient is highly recommend by skin experts. However, there’s a catch: While many skin types can use retinol, it can be irritating when you first add it to your routine, resulting in redness, flaking, dryness, and tightness. Essentially, mastering retinol is an art, typically requiring you to start off slow by applying it a couple times a week until you build up tolerance. But if you’re like me, many formulas are just too harsh for your skin, so you give up before getting past the “retinol uglies.” (An apt nickname for the discomfort I’ve experienced from trying dozens of serums.) That’s why Yon-Ka Paris has created an alternative solution. The new Retinol-Like Bi-Serum mimics the effects of vitamin A without the gnarly side effects.

Since 1954, the French brand has pioneered a phyto-aromatic approach to skin care. This means that all of the products combine science-backed, plant-based actives with essential oils to improve skin concerns while providing an aromatherapeutic experience. The Retinol-Like Bi-Serum follows suit, with biomimetic microalgae and mastic tree extract replacing vitamin A, for an irritation-free user experience. A major selling point for those of us who’ve had to rehab their skin from a retinol product gone wrong. So when I had the chance to visit the brand in Paris to get a sneak peek of the serum, my bags were already packed.

Ahead, my honest thoughts on the retinol alternative I’ve been using for the past month.

Fast Facts

• Price: $178
• Size: 5.07 fl oz/ 150 mL
• Best For: treating signs of aging, uneven texture, those with sensitive skin
• Ingredient Highlights: biomimetic microalgae, mastic tree extract, gardenia extract, pink pepper essential oil
• What We Like: Absorbs quickly, has a pleasant scent, easy to add to your skin care routine
• What We Don’t Like: So far, so good
• Rating: 5/5

How TZR Keeps Score: 1/5: Making a return; 2/5: Keeping as a backup; 3/5: Finishing to the last drop; 4/5: Recommending to my group texts; 5/5: Already on auto-replenish

The Formula

Yon-Ka formulated its serum to boost collagen production at both the dermal (middle) and (epidermal) layers of skin to tackle various types of wrinkles (smile lines, forehead lines, and crow’s feet), refine pores, and improve skin texture. The star ingredients of the bi-phase formula are biomimetic microalgae and mastic tree extract. Biomimetic microalgae has a structure comparable to retinoic acid, and works to activate fibroblasts, cells in the skin responsible for producing collagen and elastin. Meanwhile, mastic tree extract stimulates the skin’s natural retinoid pathway (traditional retinol needs to be converted to retinoic acid by the skin in order for it to activate cell turnover, which is what improves collagen and elasticity levels.) In true Yon-Ka fashion, there’s an aromatherapeutic element to the formula. Pink pepper essential oil is packed with antioxidants that boost radiance, while gardenia extract soothes skin and gives the serum its stunning maroon tint.

Since the serum doesn’t contain actual retinol, you don’t have to ease into using it and it won’t contradict with other popular actives like vitamin C. What’s more, the brand says it can be used in both your morning and nighttime routines. Just remember to shake the serum before applying it because it’s a bi-phase formula.

My Experience & Results

As someone well into their 30s, prevention and maintenance are the two priorities of my skin care routine. In theory, I’m retinol’s target market, but most I’ve tried are just too irritating and I can’t get past the flaking and redness stage. After first experiencing Retinol-Like Bi-Serum during a Yonka facial in Paris, I opted to use it as the sole serum in my evening routine because I prefer to use my most active products at night when the skin enters its natural repair mode. What initially struck me is the pleasant — not overpowering — floral scent and that it quickly absorbs into my skin even though it has an oiler texture.

I went from 0 to 100 and applied the serum every night for about a month without experiencing any side effects. I didn’t have any wrinkles when I started testing it, so I can’t speak to its skin-smoothing claims. However, I was on the tail end of a bad breakout that left some dark spots, and I noticed they started to get fainter within a week of using it. My skin has also looked brighter and more even-toned overall. I was also recently told by a facialist that my skin is plump with good elasticity, so take that as you will!

Is Yon-Ka’s Retinol-Like Bi-Serum Worth It?

I’ve been personally victimized by way too many retinol products over the years, so being able to add this serum into my routine stress-free makes it worth the $178 price tag alone in my books. If you know this struggle all too well but vitamin A would tackle all of your skin concerns, Yon-Ka has made a solid alternative to try.