Forward-thinking, sustainable label Chromat is known for its figure-hugging and wildly colorful clothing, so it’s no surprise that the beauty approach for the S/S ‘22 show at New York Fashion Week would include a bold punch of color. Makeup lead and MAC Cosmetics makeup artist, Fatima Thomas conceptualized four high-octane looks with themes of draped blush, faux freckles, and the pièce de résistance, blue graphic eyeliner. “We wanted it to feel cool, young, and self-expressive,” she says of the makeup.
There were two iterations of the aforementioned eyeliner — both in a fierce blue shade which Thomas created by mixing MAC Pro Chromaline and a cobalt MAC eyeshadow, topping it off with a pearlized reflective pigment on the center of the lid — affectionately dubbed “Chromat Blue.” As the MUA explains, “When the light hits it, the blue really fires up and looks like electricity.” While this style of eyeliner is usually painted on the eyelids in crisp geometric shapes, Thomas deviated from that a bit in one of the looks by smudging the custom shade near the waterline and bringing the pigment up into the corners of the eye.
“This placement is a little different than things we’ve done in the past with this show,” Thomas explains. “It has this cool effortless and playful feeling.” The look perfectly complemented Chromat’s joyful runway show, which was filled with summery red beach attire.
The makeup artist has been working New York Fashion Week for more than 20 years and recalls: “I don’t think there has been a season where I haven't seen graphic liner. What’s been happening in the past few seasons is people are exploring more with color and graphic liner — color is uplifting and therapeutic,” she says.
That said, graphic eyeliner can also be a bit intimidating for some, (not everyone has the steadiest hands), but Thomas shared a few tips to DIY this look at home. “Lining your eyes in color is no different than lining it in black or brown,” she says. “Whether above or below, it’s best to start lining in sections instead of going for one fell swoop. Break your eye up into thirds: inner corner, middle, and outer corner.” Mark each section with a little bit of liner above where you plan on placing your design and begin to draw on the liner in your desired shape, using the marks as a guide. Be sure to keep Q-tips and micellar water on hand to clean up and sharpen the lines as you go, but as Thomas says, “It doesn’t have to be so perfect. It’s okay if everything is not symmetrical, as long as everything is nicely balanced.”
What better way to complement bold makeup than with big hair — or at least big accessories? The show took place at Jacob Riis, a historically queer beach, so natural hair and beach waves were in order along with eye-catching floral hair accessories. Oribe Principal Educator of Content & Styling, Kien Hoang, brought Chromat’s beachy aesthetic to life with a variety of hair looks customized for each model’s natural texture. The show was filled with mermaid waves and braids accessorized with bright, exotic flowers that paired perfectly with the unique location.
Hoang used Oribe’s Styling Butter Curl Enhancing Crème to moisturize, and the Mystify Restyling Spray to refresh the hair right before the show, as well as the Imperméable Anti-Humidity Spray to ensure the models’ natural textures were not only cared for during the styling process, but also protected from the humidity throughout the day.
So, for yet another season, Chromat has successfully celebrated the beauty of being authentically unique, this time with vibrant makeup and personalized (but no less stylish) hair, all easy to replicate and make your own this season.