Can BBL HEROic Erase Sun Damage? I Got The Treatment On My Chest To Find Out

Standing Appointment is our review series that investigates the best new and notable cosmetic treatments in the aesthetics space and determines whether or not they are worth trying for yourself. This week, one writer reports back on BBL HEROic for hyperpigmentation on her décolletage.

Like most teenagers on Retin-A for acne, I was diligent about wearing sunscreen and keeping my face out of the sun, mostly out of the fear that sun exposure would exacerbate my breakouts. While this is good news for the skin above my chin, I left my décolletage and neck (gasp!) totally unprotected from UV light throughout my teens, 20s, and 30s. The result, as I stepped into my 40s: hyperpigmentation across my décolletage that left me feeling self-conscious about showing off my neckline.

Having mentally struggled with having acne as a teenager, I couldn’t help but feel badly about sun spots, or what a dermatologist once called evidence of the “sins of my youth.” As a beauty editor, I have access to countless creams that promise to erase these spots, but none of the ones I’ve tried have been effective. I’ve had laser hair removal before, but I was curious about what a laser could do for my hyperpigmentation, specifically Intense-Pulsed Light (IPL). While this technology isn’t new or technically a laser (more on that later), the results can vary, and sometimes spots might reappear on the surrounding areas. So when BBL HEROic, a more targeted and intense treatment that uses BroadBand Light (BBL) popped up in my inbox, I had to try it.

What Is BBL HEROic?

BroadBand Light (BBL) is a form of advanced phototherapy used by the BBL HEROic device. “BBL delivers pulses of high intensity light into the skin to target common signs of sun damage and aging, such as brown spots, redness, and uneven tone,” says Dr. Rachel Westbay, M.D., a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and Sciton expert. “It’s a newer, more precise generation of IPL technology, using a broad spectrum of visible and near-infrared light.” She says what distinguishes BBL from previous iterations of pigment-reducing treatment is how it targets spots. “Specific structures in the skin called chromophores, like melanin in brown spots or hemoglobin in blood vessels, absorb certain wavelengths of the BBL.” She goes on to explain that when the chromophore absorbs the light energy, it converts it into heat. The body’s repair system then lifts away the damaged cells or vessels, leading to a clearer, more even complexion. “BBL HEROic is excellent in that it can target both pigment and blood vessels in treating sun damage,” says Westbay. With this treatment, as your body’s own repair system kicks in, your spots flake away, blood vessels fade, and there’s no heat damage (and the potential of new spots appearing) to surrounding tissue because the treatment is so targeted.

What’s nice about the BBL HEROic is that it can be used as a complementary treatment in conjunction with a resurfacing treatment like the MOXI laser, which is what I did for my first treatment. Something patients should know before embarking upon this treatment is that it’s not a one-and-done procedure. Optimal results of course vary from patient to patient, but typically, this treatment is done as a series of at least two to three sessions.

What Are The Potential Risks & Side Effects?

Common side effects, especially if you combine another treatment with BBL HEROic like I did, include swelling, itchy skin, and the appearance of temporary textured dark spots, formally known as microscopic epidermal necrotic debris (MENDS). The latter is just a sign that the treatment is working, as the MENDS are the tiny pieces of damaged skin pushed out when your body’s healing process kicks in. “Spots often darken immediately after treatment,” explains Westbay. MENDS typically appear after a few days (usually the second or third day) and can look like coffee grinds. Westbay advises against picking them or exfoliating them yourself, and allowing them to shed on their own. This was hardest for me on the third day post-treatment when my skin was very itchy, and the MENDS were starting to come off in my hands in the shower with warm water.

What Are The Benefits Of BBL HEROic?

True, I did not protect my décolletage from UV rays with sunscreen when I was younger. Even post-sun damage, applying SPF to my neck and chest sometimes slips my mind. According to Westbay, this is super common, as the chest is an area of the body quite prone to sun damage. “The skin on your chest is thinner than the face, gets years of direct exposure, and often goes unprotected,” she says. In addition to brown spots or visibly red blood vessels, sun damage on the chest can appear as wrinkling and crepiness. “UV radiation breaks down collagen and elastin, leading to fine lines, crinkly skin, and sagging,” explains Westbay. A thickened or leathery texture can also make the skin “tougher and less elastic.” The benefits of BBL is what Westbay calls “the principle of selective photothermolysis. That means that a light source emits pulses of non-laser, broad-spectrum light to target chromophores.” As a result, “patients often see clearer, brighter, and smoother-looking skin with continued treatments.” She suggests a series of at least three treatments, as the skin on the chest is slower to heal and show visible results due to its thin molecular composition.

“One of the most popular approaches in our practice is combining the BBL HEROic with MOXI,” says Westbay, who performed this treatment on me in a succession of two appointments, six weeks apart. “This duo brings together the color-correcting benefits of BBL with the resurfacing power of MOXI. Together, they can elevate skin tone, improve skin texture, boost luminosity, and soften visible signs of aging for a refreshed, radiant result.”

Who Should Get This Treatment?

Patients with melanin-rich skin should not get BBL HEROic since it targets pigment in the chromophores. According to Westbay, “The best candidates for BBL HEROic are individuals with fair to medium skin tones, as BBL HEROic is safest and most effective in people with lighter skin (Fitzpatrick types I-III). Darker skin tones can still be treated in some cases, but with much greater caution to avoid hyperpigmentation. Many of us really shy away from anything deeper than olive-toned, with rare exception.” She adds, “Darker skin types (Fitzpatrick type IV-VI) are at a much higher risk for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, blistering, or burns, and so should not be treated at all or should, at a minimum, be consulted with an experienced provider and treated with conservative settings.”

How Much Does BBL HEROic Cost?

The exact cost of BBL HEROic differs by location and the expertise of the practitioner providing the service. “A BBL (without MOXI) for the face costs $750 per session, and adding the chest would run you about $1,500 per session,” says Westbay.

My Experience Getting BBL HEROic

I had my BBL HEROic treatment at Westbay’s Upper East Side practice at Marmur Medical in New York City. Although I was targeting my chest and décolletage, Westbay also treated my face, having noticed some spots along the jawline and a broken blood vessel in the corner of my nostril. We stacked it with the MOXI to optimize results. After I applied the numbing cream, Westbay began with the MOXI laser and completed the treatment with the BBL HEROic. The entire procedure took no more than 20 minutes and was incredibly tolerable; I was chatting with Westbay about our kids’ after-school activities the entire time. The zaps of pulsed light were only mildly uncomfortable, and definitely worth the results.

The Aftercare

Westbay gave me ice packs to help with swelling, but I didn’t feel they were necessary. After each session, I kept the area clean with Prequel Skin Universal Skin Solution Hypochlorous Acid Spray for Face and Body and relied on the gentle, fragrance-free, Neocutus Neo Restore Mask, which I was able to lie on my neck and chest; it wasn’t a perfect fit, but still calmed the tight and itchy feeling that was beginning to set in. The appearance of MENDS was most prominent around day three post-procedure, and I moisturized with Alastin Regenerating Skin Nectar, an expensive product but totally splurge-worthy for how helpful it was in speeding up my healing time. It was tempting to slough them off, but I resisted, applying moisturizer when itchiness became intense.

I didn’t attempt to use makeup over the treated skin for about 10 days because it was too rough. As healing progressed, I wanted to make sure I kept the skin clean. Most importantly, I slathered myself in SPF. A week after my treatment, I was off to Los Angeles, where I wore a turtleneck rashguard or T-shirt when I went to the pool or beach to further protect the fresh skin that emerged post-procedure.

My Takeaway

After two treatments, I’m shocked at how less speckled the skin is on my décolletage. I’ll definitely invest in this treatment again — it’s like taking an eraser to the spots that made me feel self-conscious about having hyperpigmentation. The BBL HEROic may not reverse all the “sins of your youth,” but it did help me shed some skin.