If there's one thing that Versace's shows are known for, it's for celebrating feminine energy. Last season, for example, Jennifer Lopez graced the runway in her iconic, cut-down-to-there silk chiffon dress. For the brand's Spring/Summer 2018 show, Donatella Versace strutted down the runway with five of the label's most iconic models from the '90s. But at the Versace Fall/Winter 2020 show in Milan on Feb. 21, there was a different type of energy in the room. Specifically, masculine energy.
This season, Versace put on its first-ever co-ed show, mixing male models in with the female faces we tend to see season after season. But the mix didn't stop there. The clothes themselves took a more androgynous tilt as well, focusing on structured blazers, tailored slacks, and pressed button-downs.
As for the hair, lead hairstylist Guido Palau focused more on grooming than glamour. “It’s a nod to the boyish feeling that Donatella was looking for,” he told Vogue. In order to achieve said feeling, Palau focused on one point of continuity: Side parts. Regardless of how long or short each model's hair was, each got a deep, slick side part. Shorter 'dos were styled close to the head, while longer manes were swept into low ponytails.
For these simplistic ponies, Palau started by blowing out each model's hair, using Redken's No Blow Dry Cream. He then gathered the hair at the nape of the neck, ensuring that the hair around the crown stayed slick and smooth. For a little extra flair, Palau applied a trompe l'oeil extension along the hairline, which he then cut into spiky layers with the help of a razor. To finish, he sprayed the hair down with Redken's Triple Take 32 Extreme High-Hold Hairspray for extra shine.
The makeup, on the other hand, straddled the line between feminine and masculine. Makeup artist Pat McGrath opted to focus on clean, glowing, natural-looking skin. She used her new Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Concealer on each model. For those who needed a little extra glow (hey, it's been a long Fashion Month), she tapped her Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection Blurring Under Eye Powder under each eye. Fake, fluttery lashes and nude lips completed the look.
In a world that's increasingly less binary, it's refreshing to see a designer like Versace leaning heavily into androgyny — from clothes to beauty.