Day five of New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2020 was rainy, dreary, and cold. Personally, I didn't feel like trying — just brushed up my brows, applied some gloss, and headed to Spring Studios. Proenza Schouler's Fall/Winter 2020 beauty look adapted that same simple philosophy, as dictated by designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez.
"They wanted the girls to look really fresh and gorgeous," Diane Kendal (for Maybelline) tells TZR backstage. "It's very '90s — really gorgeous skin, balm on cheekbones and eyes, and brushing eyebrows up, filling in where necessary." The premise was for skin to look "dewy," not shiny — "groomed faces, really," Kendal continues. "Just Baby Lips and a little bit of highlight to the cheekbone — and that's it." While most of the girls rocked their fresh complexion, five girls wore a matte red lip for a slight hint of color: Maybelline Super Stay Matte Ink Lip Color in Pioneer Red.
While the makeup was gentle, Redken Global Creative Director Guido Palau's interpretation of the '90s was a bit more masculine. "The girls want to feel a little boyish," he describes of the look, complete with comb marks. "It's kind of an extreme version of this boyish combover." Using Guts 10 Volume Boosting Spray Foam and Hardwear 16 Super Strong Hold Hair Gel, Palau created wet-looking slicked back texture complete with comb marks — perfect for a rainy day. The raised shape in front "gives it a bit of beauty," he says, while the square sides gave the look an artfully messy finish.
Jin Soon Choi created three different nail designs for the models, all of them being perfectly simple and understated. According to the manicurist, the main focus was skincare for the nails, as she brought out her new HyperCare Series. "In the fall and winter season, nails get damaged so easily," she notes. The HyperRepair base coat contains AHAs for resurfacing and vitamin B5 for hydration, while the HyperGloss topcoat contains biotin for strengthening.