I chuckled to myself after a security guard handed me a branded all-access pass at Off-White Fall/Winter 2020 on Feb. 27. Firstly, because I knew my hypebeast brother would be, well, hype... and would possibly want to sell the flimsy tag on StockX for a couple hundred bucks. And I'm certain that someone would snatch it up, seeing that Off-White is one of the most coveted brands on the market. But surprisingly, this season's hair and makeup looks didn't possess an overtly trendy feel... though both lead artists (Jawara on hair, and Fara Homidi on makeup, respectfully) surely considered about it.
"At the test, we wanted to do gelled hair and all these crazy things," Jawara says backstage at the AccorHotels Arena, where Yolanda, Bella, and Gigi Hadid took the runway. "But we took a look at the clothes and saw how sexy, beautiful, and mature [the vibe] was, and we wanted women to feel naturally beautiful in the sense that they go to the salon and get their hair done." (Said "done" look was inspired by the stick-straight blowouts seen in the Helmut Lang days in the '90s.) For the natural-haired models, he also incorporated another throwback favorite: flat twists, "which were one of my favorites that I loved growing up," he smiles.
Homidi also made a swap, opting to give the girls clear gloss instead of bright lipstick mere hours before showtime. "It's something we've done for a few seasons now, ever since I've been doing the show," she explains of the shiny, mirror-finish lips (MAC Lipglass Clear, to be exact).
While the rest of the face was subdued, select girls wore a shock of fluorescent pink mascara, fanned out from the middle of the lash to the corner... because this is Off-White, after all, and you can't shy away from making some sort of statement. "The thing with Virgil and Off-White is that we let the girls speak for themselves," she says. "We always give them a little detail — something fun — but want to find something that makes everyone look elegant, chic, and upgraded. We didn't want to go too crazy. It's really just about the clothes and the girl."