It's like that old Instagram adage goes: If the eyes are windows to the soul, then eyebrows are like your curtains — and getting a little too tweezer-happy can really ruin things fast. Your brows undoubtedly set the tone for the rest of your face, and that's why eyebrow enhancing techniques — including how to make brows fuller, darker, and how to reshape them — are crucial to not only perfecting your best arch, but putting your best face forward.
No matter the type of brow that's currently trending (read: in 2018, fuller is still better), brow grooming is a component of beauty that's consistently relevant; and techniques such as waxing and threading offer more advanced ways to keep brows defined. Brow professionals have also made keeping your arches together easy with products that are naturally enhancing, like pencils, pomades, brushes, and specific shaping tools.
No matter what your style is, whether it be a fuller arch or if your eyebrows are naturally thin, there's always room to reinvent the wheel. A good shape takes time, practice, and the right tools — most important of which include the right professionals to coach you through eyebrow techniques. Three pros gave The Zoe Report their best tips for getting your best brows ever.
If Your Brows Are Full...
If your brows are already full, consider yourself lucky. They typically require less maintenance, but nonetheless still need attention. “The key to mastering this shape is to make sure they are balanced with your face shape and don't overwhelm," Joey Healy, celebrity eyebrow specialist, says. "There is a big difference between bold and heavy."
For balance, Healy suggests removing the obvious surrounding strays, defining the arch under the outer third of the shape, making sure the tails finish in a crisp taper. If you focus on these three things, the brow will look groomed but still keep its thicker silhouette. "Finish the shape with a non-crunchy clear brow gel, so they are neatly swept into place to frame the eye,” he continues.
As far as tools, try using a brow pencil to keep bold eyebrows defined. Filling in your brows will diminish any sparse spots, creating a fluid arch. “The correct way to apply the pencil is to simply outline your brow and brush through," he instructs. "Because sparseness is usually around the brow, there's no need to fill in the center of the brows unless there are gaps and holes — and when you brush through with a spoolie, you disperse the pigment throughout while avoiding a heavy stroke,” brow expert Sania Vucetaj, who's worked with Sarah Jessica Parker, Rihanna, and Angela Simmons, adds.
If Your Brows Are Sparse...
Thin and bare brows can be chalked up to genetics, or perhaps the result of a nightmare wax. Either way, definition is still possible according to celebrity makeup artist Kelley Baker, who works with the Kardashian family. “First, I start by trimming brows. This will help you see your natural shape. Then I’ll wax all unwanted hairs to clean up the brow area. Removing the outer hairs will actually bring more definition to your brows. To finish, I tweeze any out of place hairs, but keeping most in to help keep the fullness to the sparse area.”
Making sparse brows appear fuller also requires paying attention to what you're adding around your eyebrows. “The most important advice I have learned in over 25 years of experience is to avoid all lotions, moisturizers, serums, foundations, sunscreens and face cleansers in the brow area," Vucetaj says. "These oils and creams clog the follicle, which not only prevents growth, but also causes shedding, that will leave your brows even more sparse."
If You Need To Reshape...
The number one rule of reshaping is one that you might not expect. “Put your tweezers down!” Baker warns. This might be difficult to do if those out-of-place hairs drive you crazy, but it's all worth it in the end. “Patience is key. Allow brows to grow for four to six weeks before seeing a pro,” Healy suggests.
After you allow new growth to happen, ask a professional about the best arch for your face before your appointment begins. “I prefer to keep trimming natural and feathery for a fuller look," Vucetaj says. "I make sure that brow tails usually align at a 45-degree angle with your eyes. This is a good benchmark. However, keep in mind that brow length is determined by one's features."
And don't be deterred if your brows don't match exactly... as the adage goes, arches are meant to be sisters — not twins. But as long as they're in the same family, you're in good business.