From eco-friendly couture to political-statement-making accessories, this year’s red carpet became a platform for a deeper form of self-expression on top of the usual sartorial flair. A-listers seemed to have chosen their designers based on merit instead of merely adhering to trends—e.g., Evan Rachel Wood’s decision to wear just pantsuits—and the best (like Altuzarra, which singlehandedly took on Evan’s request) were willing to deliver. Brands were more authentic than ever, showcasing memorable fashion hits including Dakota Johnson’s dramatic straps-and-ruffles ensemble by Gucci and Ruth Negga’s crimson Oscars gown courtesy of Irene Neuwirth. In recalling awards season, The Hollywood Reporter rounded up its fourth annual list of 20 reigning fashion designers based on red-carpet prevalence, star power and social media presence—accompanied by a roster of their biggest Hollywood clients, of course. Here, some of the major players behind your fave celeb looks.