A New Controversial Under-Eye Treatment Has Entered The Chat

My under-eye issues started in my 20s. I remember the first time I stared intently at the bathroom mirror for close to an hour, obsessing over what I thought were bags. (Turns out they were tear trough hollows.) Desperate to plump them up, I began spending hundreds of dollars on creams, serums, and concealers that all claimed to be a miracle in a bottle, even though none of them were.

In my mid-20s, I discovered under-eye filler, and I was finally able to kiss my hollows goodbye. It worked well — until it didn’t. While the hyaluronic acid filler can be effective, it also comes with a host of potential side effects, such as lumps caused by blocked lymphatic drainage, discoloration if not injected properly, and emphasizing preexisting under-eye bags. So as cosmetic treatments evolve, next-gen treatments, specifically growth factors, first in the form of platelet-rich fibrin (PRF) and now platelet-derived growth factors (PDGF), are on the rise.

I was intrigued by the anti-filler volumizing benefits of PRF, but it was the before-and-afters of PDGF that had me hooked. I had to try this treatment. And so I did, with great success. PDGF may sound more like weird science than reality, but the idea that the body can create smoother, brighter, and plumper-looking skin is redefining modern-day aesthetics. And that’s why it’s creating quite a name for itself. This naturally found growth factor plays a key role in skin repair, rejuvenation, and cellular renewal, making it one of the buzziest treatments in beauty right now.

Ahead, TZR investigates everything you need to know about the viral new treatment, how it works, if it’s right for you, and why it may be the missing piece to your skin care routine.

What Is PDGF?

PDGF is a naturally occurring protein rich in various growth factors found within the body. Fort Lauderdale, Florida, dermatologist Dr. Shino Bay Aguilera, D.O., calls PDGF one of the most potent signaling molecules naturally produced by platelets. “It plays a critical role in tissue repair, angiogenesis, and the activation of fibroblasts, which are ‘architect cells’ responsible for producing collagen, elastin, and extracellular matrix,” he says. But, like so many things affected by the natural aging process, the body’s natural production of PDGF starts to decline over time, making it harder for the skin to repair itself as efficiently as it once did.

With a proven track record in wound healing, orthopedics, and other medical procedures, PDGF is now gaining traction for its skin rejuvenating benefits. New York City-based double board-certified facial plastic surgeon Dr. Jennifer Levine, M.D., explains that the growth factors within synthetic PDGF are far more potent and effective than other sources — some 300,000 times more the concentration of PRP or PRF — allowing it to greatly enhance collagen and elastin levels for a noticeable difference in the skin. Unlike PRP and PRF, PDGF doesn’t require a blood draw, making it quick and easy. “Research shows that PDGF concentrations in PRP and PRF typically fall below minimum therapeutic thresholds for optimal tissue regeneration,” says aesthetic nurse injector Leslie Fletcher, NP-BC, of Torrance, California, “allowing exogenic PDGF to provide a controlled and efficient approach compared to autologous options.”

But here’s where things get a little dicey: PDGF is not currently Food and Drug Administration approved for cosmetic use, meaning it falls under “enter at your own risk” territory. The main manufacturer of PDGF is Ariessence (a highly concentrated topical PDGF formulated with hyaluronic acid), although lesser-known ones exist. While Ariessence is marketed as a topical post-treatment product that decreases healing time, more and more injectors are catching wind of its injectable benefits and using it that way, which is an experimental approach. That said, Levine shares that even though Airessence is not an FDA-approved injectable, other forms of PDGF are. “There are several different regenerative cocktails out there, and they’re all designed for topical use,” she says. “But that doesn’t mean they’re not used as injections, because they are. Right now, we are not allowed to use them in those ways, and physicians should adhere to that.”

How Does PDGF Work?

The exact way PDGF works is quite technical, but Fletcher explains that synthetic PDGF utilizes recombinant therapeutic technology, which is the same approach that revolutionized diabetes treatment through biosynthetic insulin. “Recombinant technologies take sequences, or recipes, from human genes and insert them into external sources. In this case, it’s the yeast of PDGF-BB.” The yeast then produces an exact replica of the protein coded by the gene, which is identical to human PDGF-BB. “Then, the protein is extracted and purified to create a clean, synthetic product, ensuring consistency in purity, concentration, and outcomes,” Fletcher adds.

Synthetic PDGF can be used topically or via injections or microinfusion. The differences between each delivery system lie in how deep PDGF is delivered and how the skin’s healing response is activated.

With a laser or microneedling, controlled trauma is created in the deeper layers of the skin, and immediately applying PDGF to these open channels allows the upper layers of the skin to repair the damage. Fletcher says this mode of action also stimulates dermal fibroblasts to produce new collagen for smoother skin while signaling the creation of hyaluronic acid for better hydration. Additionally, using PDGF topically after a laser or microneedling procedure allows the skin to heal better and faster than using the typically recommended post-treatment ointment, Aquaphor, alone, Levine says.

On the other hand, injecting PDGF works differently. “It targets the deep anatomical planes below the dermis, potentially engaging both adipose tissue and dermal fibroblasts in the repair response,” Fletcher says. “This creates a scaffolding effect, comparable to traditional dermal fillers. Because these deeper tissues offer more expansive three-dimensional space, the newly synthesized collagen can develop into longer, more robust fibers that form a supportive matrix.” In simpler terms, PDGF helps to rebuild the skin through newly created collagen and elastin, giving it an increased firmness and strengthening and improving its structure and texture.

Then there’s microinfusion, which drives PDGF into the epidermis at a more uniform depth. Christie Kidd, PA-C, owner and founder of Rodeo Drive Dermatology and Aesthetics in Beverly Hills and a celebrity skin expert, says microfusion is ideal for improving and thickening delicate skin, like the thin skin around the eyes. “Devices such as EnerJet and Preime DermaFacial can be used with PDGF (as well as PDRN),” she shares. “They use a different mechanism of action, so that the product is infused deeper than when used topically. Plus, they are needle-free.”

Depending on how PDGF is used, there may be minimal downtime. It’s best to avoid working out, drinking alcohol, and taking aspirin for the first 24 hours, which can increase bruising and swelling, particularly when PDGF is injected. When PDGF is used topically, Levine typically sends her patients home with any extra product. “I also instruct them not to wash the skin for at least 24 hours so that the PDGF can really penetrate and soak in.”

What Are The Benefits Of PDGF?

Using growth factors to improve skin quality isn’t exactly new, and now that PDGF is part of the mix, it’s becoming another solution for facial rejuvenation, hair restoration, scar reduction, and improving the appearance of fine lines. PDGF is quickly gaining popularity for its ability to correct dark circles and improving crepey, paper-thin skin on the neck, arms, above the knees, and the nasolabial folds by thickening the skin. Kidd says its versatility gives it a major leg up. “It can be used on the face, earlobes, neck, décolletage, hands, elbows, and knees — pretty much anywhere the skin needs a boost.”

According to Aguilera, PDGF triggers a process known as autophosphorylation, which activates key pathways to awaken fibroblasts from dormancy and restore communication between the epidermis and dermis. “Once activated, fibroblasts create collagen types I and III, which, over time, lead to a denser, more elastic dermis and improved hydration for visibly youthful skin.” PDGF also promotes the formation of new capillaries, helping to enhance oxygen and nutrient delivery to the dermis for faster healing, better cellular metabolism, and a natural radiance. “PDGF directly addresses the core cellular deficits that occur with aging on a regenerative level to treat the skin and improve its quality,” Kidd says. “I love to use it because it helps to rebuild and strengthen the dermal layer to increase collagen and elastin production, improves oxygen and nutrient delivery to the tissue, and results in a smoother texture.”

But PDGF isn’t a permanent solution, with results lasting six to 12 months at most. Within two weeks, the skin can take on a smoother, brighter appearance, with increased thickness and firmness, smaller-looking pores, and a subtle plumpness. Around Weeks 8 to 12 is when the full results are most noticeable, since it takes that long for collagen remodeling to take hold for visible improvement.

Potential Risks & Side Effects

As with any cosmetic treatment (FDA approved or not), there’s always the potential for risks, side effects, or reactions, and PDGF is not exempt from that. Typically, after microneedling or a laser treatment with PDGF, there’s mild redness, warmth, sensitivity, and slight swelling, which often occurs from the treatments themselves, regardless of whether PDGF is used

With injections, Aguilera says the risk profile changes slightly to include swelling, tenderness, possible temporary discoloration, uneven texture, and even localized collagen nodules. “These can occur if PDGF is injected too superficially or is concentrated in thin areas,” he explains. “Also, if PDGF is combined improperly with other growth factors or stimulatory agents, it can drive fibroblast fatigue or excessive collagen deposition. However, these effects are rare and preventable when PDGF is correctly reconstituted (in normal saline rather than gel vehicles) and delivered in balanced doses.”

Levine adds that until PDGF is approved for injectable use, an unclear consensus of exactly how it should be injected remains, making it a bit risky. “But there is a great deal of evidence that shows that PDGF is safe,” she says.

Speaking of PDGF injections, the controversy surrounding this treatment method is mainly due to safety concerns and the fact that this is not an FDA-approved use. According to Aguilera, PDGF by Airessence is approved only for topical use, though the recombinant PDGF molecule itself is chemically identical to those found in FDA-approved formulations for intra-articular and intra-oral applications. “Some licensed medical professionals may choose to inject PDGF if permitted by their state license, malpractice coverage, and medical judgment,” he explains. “When used for this purpose, PDGF must be reconstituted with saline rather than its topical gel vehicle.” While injectable delivery may enhance results, he cautions that patients and providers must recognize the potential risks associated with it. Injecting PDGF too superficially at high concentrations or in delicate areas may potentially cause localized collagen nodules, transient swelling, or discoloration. For these reasons alone, some doctors and injectors opt to avoid offering PDGF injections, believing that, for now, the risks outweigh the benefits.

Will PDGF Replace Other Cosmetic Treatments?

PDGF falls under the umbrella of regenerative aesthetic treatments, and some experts believe it could slowly replace the need for more traditional cosmetic treatments.

“While fillers are great for treating very deep creases and large volume deficits, I don’t rely on them for facial enhancement,” Kidd says. “Without a doubt, I’m seeing fillers being used for less these days. Adding PDGF into the dermis is a game-changer because it works to correct the problem and improve cellular structure. There’s also the advantage of a lower reliance on inflammatory wound healing response, which is how biostimulator injectables work.” Similarly, she shares that ablative resurfacing lasers are experiencing a slight decline. While there is still a need for them, Kidd believes that those who use PDGF notice improved skin quality overall, so ablative treatments may be needed less frequently.

While none of these tried-and-true options are being completely abandoned, the addition of PDGF to the beauty toolbox is influencing some aesthetic treatment plans to take a different turn. “Aging skin needs restoration, not just masking,” Kidd says. “With PDGF, we’re able to create a stronger, denser dermis, which over time is a huge advantage in maintaining skin quality.”

Experts:

Dr. Shino Bay Aguilera, D.O., dermatologist in Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Leslie Fletcher, NP-BC, aesthetic nurse injector in Torrance, California

Christie Kidd, PA-C, owner and founder of Rodeo Drive Dermatology and Aesthetics in Beverly Hills

Dr. Jennifer Levine, M.D., double board-certified facial plastic surgeon in New York City